Wednesday, May 31, 2000

Portland, OR

I don’t know why, but this morning I couldn’t get started. I didn’t wake up until 11am and was only just ready in time when Amy came home to have lunch with me at noon. We picked up sandwiches from Zupans and drove to Washington Park to sit on the grass in the sunshine. We sat in the amphitheatre looking towards Mt Hood, surrounded by these beautiful gardens. It was picture perfect.

On her way back to work, Amy dropped me off at the grocery store to pick up food for dinner (I volunteered to cook her my one and only dish – chicken stir fry). I got home and prepared things so all I had to do when Amy got home was throw everything in the fry pan.

But when Amy got home we decided to go and see Cider House Rules at the Mission Theater (4 blocks away). Great movie, but deep and somber. It certainly didn’t give you the warmest feeling upon leaving. This is the same theatre we saw Being John Malkovich in, the last time I was here. For $2 and cheap beers in this old restored building, you can’t go wrong.

Once we got home I cooked dinner. It wasn’t too bad, even if I say so myself. Once again tonight was a late one for us, which is fine by me, but some of us have to be at work early in the morning.

Tuesday, May 30, 2000

Portland, OR

Amy had to go to work this morning – no time to allow jetlag to kick in. I got up just after she left, and I am left to my own devices for the day.

It’s pretty miserable outside, so I decide a day of television and music is on the cards. This I stop to walk up the street to put some photos in to be developed and buy some lunch. Amy came home in the middle of the day so we could have lunch together. It’s a shame she has to work all week, but we’ll just make the most of our time together before I head to Florida next Sunday. After lunch I went to pick up the photos and also my backpack from the station. The afternoon was then spent slovenly around Amy’s apartment until she came home.

We went to dinner at Tira Na Nog, an Irish pub that is one of her accounts. The food here was huge and delicious, and of course topped with the perfect company. Afterwards, the evening was spent vegging out to music and Ben and Jerry’s ice cream.

Monday, May 29, 2000

Portland, OR

This has been the day I have been waiting for. Back in Portland to hang out with Amy again.

Most of the morning is spent in awe of the Oregon forest. The scenery around the lakes at Klamath Falls is stunning. The early afternoon was spent playing cards with Amy and Jackie. Amy has just returned from 6 months in Australia, and is heading back to Minnesota. While Amy is heading back to Seattle, after being in New Mexico for a possible job.

The train rolled into Portland at around 4pm. I found a storage room to put my backpack and headed off in search of food. First thing, though, was to stop off at Kinko’s to spend some time emailing. This has become an addiction I cannot do without for more than 2 days. After all this, it is still another 3 hours before Amy is due back from Italy. I found the Broadway Cinema and went and saw Mission Impossible II. Although it is not the greatest of movies, it kept me entertained, out of the cold, and somewhat homesick, as a lot of the movie is set in Sydney.

After a quick call to confirm she was home, I raced up to Amy’s to see her. It has only been a few weeks, but is so good to see her again. We stayed in talking about our different trips for what seemed like all night.

Sunday, May 28, 2000

Pacific Beach, CA to Portland, OR

Thankfully there is nothing to do today but sit on a train because, although I don’t feel hung over, I am extremely tired. I slept all the way from San Diego to Los Angeles, and then had 2 seats to myself all the way to Portland. Amtrak is definitely the way to go. I have so much legroom, and my seat reclines way back. Complete comfort. While the journey along the coast is picturesque, once we head inland there is little to talk of. I sleep on and off throughout the day. I also befriended 2 girls sitting behind me, Amy from Minnesota and Jackie from Seattle. And by Sacramento at 10pm, I was sound asleep for the night.

Saturday, May 27, 2000

Pacific Beach, CA

I woke up relatively early this morning and headed down to Garnet Street to check out the shops. When I got back Jodie, Josh and I went to The Menu for breakfast. Good hearty start to the day.

From here we drove to Sunset Cliffs, just south of Ocean Beach. We walked along the beach and rocks for a while. At the southern end there are caves, which can be accessed at low tide. Unfortunately our timing is out.

When we left the beach we went back to the house via Josh’s, where we decided we would go to the Marine Room. This is a bar / restaurant just north of La Jolla that is literally on the beach. (Apparently at high tide it’s like being underwater). We were to have drinks there and watch the sunset, but it’s prom night and the entire restaurant is booked for a private party. What we do do though, is drive back towards Pacific Beach and stop at Froggys for dinner. I had oysters and a beautiful chicken fillet on garlic mashed potatoes. Too good!

After dinner we went to Stingers and Josh and I had a couple of drinks. After a while we headed up to Longboards (where Mitch works). There was a band, Archive, playing, which Josh will be recording in a couple of weeks, so we stayed and watched them and had a few more drinks. When it all finished we went back to Stingers, where we stayed until close.

Jodie drove us back to the house where I picked up my bags and headed to the train station, as it was now nearly 4am and my train was due to leave just after 6am. After our goodbyes I curled up on a bench inside the station, thanks to a kind guard, and snoozed until the train arrived.

Friday, May 26, 2000

Pacific Beach, CA

Jodie doesn’t start work until 10pm tonight and has kindly offered to show me around for the day. We started off at a Greek restaurant to have lunch with a friend of hers, Mitch. This guy is good value and gives me plenty of tips for traveling in the USA, and recommended some reading as well.

After lunch we headed into downtown, where first stop was to buy a train ticket. I picked up one for Sunday morning, which will put me in Portland 35 hours later. Unfortunately Autodriveaway didn’t come through with a car, so I will be unable to catch the Nagles at Uncle John’s this weekend.

We drove over to the Gaslamp Quarter and wander around the streets and the mall.

We then headed over to Josh’s, via the harbor, checking out the naval base and cruise liners. From Josh’s we head to the Old Town where we go to Berta’s for dinner. This is a Latin American restaurant and absolutely delicious. I had the paella and a Peruvian beer.

Josh and Jodie dropped me back at the house for dinner and then went to work. I stayed at home and did some cleaning and had intended on going to Stingers, but instead fell asleep in front of the television.

Thursday, May 25, 2000

Pacific Beach, CA

I decided to head to the Museum of Contemporary Art in La Jolla today, and to do so by walking. It is at least 6 kilometers to La Jolla, and I try to stick to the coast as much as possible. The further north I walk, the more amazing the houses become. And La Jolla itself is very much targeted to the richer tourist.

Because I haven’t eaten today, and I’m on the verge of fainting, I stop for some take-away for lunch. Note to self – Jack In The Box only to be eaten again except if nothing is around for a hundred miles.
Onward I walked to the museum, whose main exhibition was feature of Mexican artists. The most significant being Diego Rivera. Considering it took me nearly 2 hours to walk there and only 45 minutes to go through the gallery, it hardly seemed worth it.

The walk home did seem a bit quicker as I stuck to the main road. I stuck my head in the house briefly before deciding to wander along the beach again. This time I did so all the way to Mission Beach, where there is a small fun park and plenty of touristy shops. This is also where MTV will be filming a series of summer shows, as the stages had already be erected along the beach. I walked along Mission Street ducking into the odd clothes and record stores. I stopped in at Stingers again to say hi to Jodie before going back to the house. Emma has the night off, so after I have fish and chips for dinner, I hang out with her for the evening watching videos. I fully appreciate a quiet night in.

Pacific Beach, CA

Wednesday, May 24, 2000

Pacific Beach, CA

Once again we were up late this morning – pick a common theme when Dave and Melissa are around. This morning Dave, Melissa, Jodie, Mark, Emma and I drove down to Mission Beach (the one south of Pacific) to have lunch at Mission CafĂ©. After a delicious lunch we said goodbye to Dave and Melissa, who headed back to Las Vegas. The weather the past 2 days has been overcast, and I’m informed that this is an early incarnation of San Diego’s June Gloom. While the weather is fine and warmish, it is still not good enough for me to go into in the water swimming.

We drove back to the house, as the others had to go to work. I decide to walk along Pacific Beach. The walkway is right along the beach and full of joggers, walkers, skaters and bike riders. Units sit on the waterfront and all have courtyards – most filled with people barbequing. This is very much the outdoor town, and a place I could get used to very easily.

When I got back to the house, Jodie offered to drive me out to Autodriveawy so I could get my refund. While I was there I find there is a chance of getting a car to Portland (will have to call tomorrow).

Jodie drops me off back at the house and goes to work. I take the chance of a quick snooze. When I wake up, I walked down to Garnet Street, grab some pizza for dinner and head up to Stingers, where I have a few drinks with Josh and their friend Kenyan. What was to be a quiet night turned into numerous drinks finishing up at 1am. Once Jodie had completely finished we went back to the house for a few more beers and a night of Star Wars Trivial Pursuit with Mark and Josh till all hours of the morning.

Tuesday, May 23, 2000

Pacific Beach, CA

Oh the pain! I feel seedier than I can ever remember ever being. Fortunately a couple of trips to the bathroom and some panadine forte cured everything.

We head back to the hostel to pick up my stuff as Jodie, Mark and Emma have insisted that I stay with them while I’m in San Diego. This is fantastic – three blocks from Pacific Beach and in a house. The hostel I was in yesterday was probably the worst I’ve been in for far – luckily I didn’t have to sleep there.

On the way back to the house we picked up some donuts and various snacks for breakfast.

Once we were all up and kind of alive, Dave, Melissa, Mark and I drove down to the border and walk across into Mexico. We catch a cab to Tijuana where a fun day begins. We start at the Hard Rock CafĂ©, where Dave and Melissa do some pin trading. From there we walk from stall to shop to bar. People everywhere were trying to entice us into buying goods from them, and while haggling and bartering is not my thing, it was entertaining watching everyone else. We went to pubs that offered 99-cent Coronas, bag shops that would halve their prices – and then some, and a strip joint where we could have whatever we wanted – from booze to girls to drugs. My only purchase was a Cuban cigar (Real? Who knows?). Mark, Melissa and I bought one each for a total of $16 – which I thought was awesome as they were asking for $14 each. The store lit them for us and we walked around like rock stars all day. We ended up back at the Hard Rock for dinner – better safe than sorry in Tijuana. It also gave Dave a chance to score a good bargain on pins and merchandise.

We headed back home at around 6pm and met with Jodie back at the house. From there we go to Stingers, where Jodie works, for a few drinks before moving on to Carr Street for more drinks and shuffleboard until two in the morning.

Monday, May 22, 2000

Bakersfield, CA to Pacific Beach, CA

I got driving again at 9am and took about 4 hours to get to Laguna Niguel. I was going to go and look at Los Angeles, but driving past on the freeway put me off – tons of smog and traffic. The directions I got in Seattle were perfect to the letter. I dropped the car off at the owners after doing 1 mile over the 1300 mile limit I was given. This didn’t seem to be a problem.

From Laguna Niguel the car’s owner, Vincent, gave me a lift to San Juan Capistrano train station – which was a good 20 minutes away. I waited half an hour to catch the next train to San Diego. This 90 minute trip ran along the coast virtually the whole way, which made for great sight seeing.

From the train station I caught a trolley to Old Town and then a bus out to Ocean Beach, where I booked into the hostel for the night. I checked my emails – a couple from Amy (7 sleeps), Kel, and Dave and Melissa. They’re coming to Pacific Beach (2 beaches north) tonight and left a number for me to call them at their friends – Jodie, Mark and Emma. I did so to find that they were planning a BBQ tonight, and that they would come and get me at 7pm. This gave me time to clean up and have a wander around the hostel area.

Melissa and Jodie picked me up and we went to Pacific Beach – about 20 minutes away. There, I met Mark and Emma, and Jodie’s boyfriend, Josh. They cooked up an awesome barbie and we ate and drank until the early hours of the morning. It’s always great to catch up with Dave and Melissa, and you know that friends of theirs are going to be great people as well. As proven in the coming week.

Sunday, May 21, 2000

San Francisco, CA to Bakersfield, CA

Got up at 9am this morning and headed off to Jack’s Diner for breakfast with the Nagles, and Casi’s dad and sisters. The diner is set in a 50’s style and is quite quaint.

After breakfast we went to Marin County to the beach. Naags had a surf while I got a chance to try out my new tripod. From the beach we drove up to Casi’s mum’s place for lunch. It was great to see Smiley, and Uncle John was there as well. After a sushi lunch we all went for a walk around the area. Mrs Neuman lives in an area that is full of similarly built apartments and houses – but in a spot where deer roam free. It’s an amazing sight. Once again today is so hot, so it was a relief to get back into an air conditioned house after the walk.

Not long after I began my journey south towards Los Angeles. I drove until 10pm and pulled into a rest area just outside Bakersfield to sleep in the car overnight

Saturday, May 20, 2000

Jacksonville, OR to San Francisco, CA

I woke up early this morning as it is hot – 30 degrees at 8am. I start my drive immediately and pull over not long after to have some breakfast, actually it was the same town that Kern, Amy and I stopped in on our way to Portland. I rang Naags and organized to meet him at Geoff’s place for a barbeque. The drive to San Francisco for took 6 hours, in temperatures in excess of 35 degrees. Thank God for air conditioning. Geoff lives a fair way from Naags, but I manage to find it alright. It was good to catch up with everyone again. The sun blazing and the big backyard made for a perfect afternoon. We even got and encore from the Chris Nagle Matrimonious Trio. Naags and Casi had a wonderful time on their honeymoon. The photos I saw makes the Maldives look like paradise. The barbeque wound up at 10pm, and we headed back to the Nagle house.

Friday, May 19, 2000

Vancouver, BC to Jacksonville, OR

I got an early start today as the bus leaves for Seattle at 8am. There are 10 of us on the bus and the trip is a good one. H is our driver – a Kiwi who just arrived in Canada. He has also lived in Bronte. We got on really well. We got through the border with no hassles, for a change, and arrived in Seattle just after lunch.

After speaking with Autodriveaway I caught the 174 bus out beyond SeaTac airport to pick up a 2000 Pontiac Montana, which I am going to drive to Laguna Nigel over the next few days. The car is so new that there is only 69 miles on the odometer. I was on my way by 3pm and, besides the traffic at the beginning, it was a smooth trip. I made only two stops before pulling into a rest area about 30 miles north of Jacksonville, Oregon. I folded the back seats down and stayed here the night. Would’ve loved to have been able to get to Uncle John’s, but I was so tired I couldn’t keep my eyes open any longer.

Thursday, May 18, 2000

Vancouver, BC

I booked into the hostel for another night so I can get a cheap bus to Seattle tomorrow.

I went out wandering the shops today and picked up a tripod for my camera, and a converter so I can use my walkman in the car that I am picking up tomorrow. The day was a waste.

Went back to the hostel and hung out with David, played some pool, checked some emails and had a bite to eat. He left the hostel to stay with a girl he has met, as they are going to Vancouver Island tomorrow. I spent the night in reading and talking with Philippe and Simon (our new roommate from London).

Wednesday, May 17, 2000

Vancouver, BC

The weather is a bit gloomy this morning, and a late start sees me leave the hostel at ten. I had breakfast at Denny’s after finding out there were no cars available for me from Autodriveaway here in Vancouver (I was hoping to be able to drive to San Diego). 

I walked downtown to the British Embassy in order to see if there is any way possible that Amy can get a visa to work in the UK, but this looks more difficult than I expected. Hopefully she can find work beforehand and get a sponsorship. 

Near the embassy is the Skytrain (monorail), which goes out to the main train / bus station. I go out there and see what the deal is about the possibility of getting to San Diego. Amtrak seems difficult and Greyhound will be a two-day trip. I decide I’ll go back to Seattle and see what I can do from there. 

I caught the Skytrain back to Burrard St and went into the Vancouver Art Museum. Expecting lots of Native Indian art, I was disappointed when I found none. What I did find, though, was as follows; an exhibition entitled “Mirror’s Edge” which was contemporary art that was also interactive eg the labyrinth covered in brown paper and bubble wrap that you could write on; a permanent collection of works by Emily Carr, who resided in Victoria and had a fascination for Indian culture. Not only were there her paintings, but also a biography of her. 

After the gallery I headed back to the hostel. 


At 8pm I went out to grab some dinner and then walk down to the Commodore Ballroom to see The Melvins. I ran into Dave again and a mate of his, Mick, so hung out and had a few drinks with them. The Melvins were awesome. They played two sets (45 & 90 minutes) and totally rocked. The only two songs that I knew were covers, Tequila and Smells Like Teen Spirit - allegedly with Leif Garrett but it could've been anyone - but the rest of the set was amazing regardless (though I wish they had of played Honeybucket and Lizzy). It was hard to sleep afterwards with my ears buzzing and being fully pumped. Luckily I’ve got nothing to do tomorrow.

The Crap Facts
This is my 186th concert.
Commodore Ballroom is the 48th venue I've seen a concert in.
Vancouver is the 35th city I've seen a concert in.
British Columbia is the 5th state I've seen a concert in.
Canada is the 4th country I've seen a concert in.
This is my 2nd Melvins concert.

Tuesday, May 16, 2000

Vancouver, BC

Yet another glorious day. I was going to go to Capilano Bridge today, but Philippe recommended Lynn Canyon instead, as it has a suspension bridge and hiking trails. So I walked down to the harbor and caught the Seabus across to North Vancouver. From here I caught the bus up to Lynn Canyon. This is like a National Park, with an absolutely beautiful river running through it. At the park’s entrance is the Suspension Bridge. Fifty metres below the river is at its raging best. The bridge is only 75 metres long, but there was no way in the world that I was going to stop for too long. On the other side I start following the trail south. The area around is similar to a rainforest, which is evident by the muddy trail along the way. I walked to Twin Falls Bridge and stop for the view, and then kept walking south until the river starts to bend. At this point I stopped again, and just to soak in how fantastic the surroundings are. I’d walked for an hour and a half and turned back toward Twin Falls Bridge, which I crossed, and continued on the higher, western side of the river’s bank. This track leads back to the park’s entrance. There is another trail heading north, which I walk along. I took so many photos, but every time I take one there is a better opportunity only 10 meters ahead. The trail crosses the river, where there are some gas pipelines at the park’s northern most point. I have lunch at a general store here and call home. Back in the park I continue on the trail (now heading back south). After 3 hours total I am back at the suspension bridge, and have to cross it again. Shit! I did so as quickly as possible.

Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge, North Vancouver, BC

Me @ Lynn Canyon, North Vancouver, BC

Lynn Canyon

I left the park and caught the bus back to Lonsdale Quays. It was here that I decided to go to Grouse Mountain. The bus up to the mountain took about half an hour, and once there I paid for the Skyride to the top of the 1100 meter mountain. The view on the way up was spectacular – with the day so clear, you could see so far – even the mountains on Vancouver Island. At the top it was the same, except I was now surrounded by snow. I walked around the top of the mountain and looked at the various ski runs, which to me looked like they were ready to filled, but obviously not good enough for the locals as there was no one near the slopes and the chairlifts not even running. The ride down at 6pm was pleasant, as was the feel of the sun, still 3 hours from setting.

Skyride Up Grouse Mountain, Vancouver, BC

View Of Vancouver From Grouse Mountain

Once at the bottom, I caught the bus back to the Quays and then a ferry back to the city, and walked back to the hostel. When I got there I caught up with David and we went for fish and chips for dinner, just on Davie Street. When we got back to the hostel, Philippe was there and we sat around catching up on the day’s events before both of them headed out on dates.

Monday, May 15, 2000

Vancouver, BC

I walked straight down to the harbor this morning to see if everything looks as perfect as what it does from a distance. Unfortunately this is not the case, as both sides of the harbor are lined with numerous industrial ports, which are an eyesore on what could compete with Sydney’s harbor.

I took photos regardless, and then headed to the Harbor Center TowerVancouver’s tallest building – which gives a panoramic view of the city. It also gives you a general idea of how far away each of the mapped sights are. I ride up and down in a glass elevator, which is a new scare / thrill.

Northwest Vancouver From Harbor Center Tower

I had lunch just under the tower before walking over to Chinatown. While I was there I was going to go to the Dr Sun Yat-Sen Chinese Garden. It seemed to be split in two. The larger section was free, so obviously in I went. I wasn’t very impressed and skipped the second area.

I continued through Chinatown, into Gastown – Vancouver’s Rocks. This old part of town is full of cafes and tourist shops, and not really much else.

Vancouver Harborside

Earlier in the day I had picked up a brochure for bike rental at the tourist information, so I walked across town to the edge of Stanley Park and hired a pushy. There is a track that runs around the edge of this thousand-acre park, which I rode around. The track takes you around the harbor’s edge, under Lion’s Gate Bridge, out to English Bay and all the way along False Creek before it turns to the south side of False Creek and continues, seemingly, forever. I turned back at the Maritime Museum and headed back over Burrard Bridge. By the time I’d finished I’d covered about 20 kilometers. I took the bike back and tenderly walked home.

Totem Poles In Stanley Park

Bottom Of Totem Pole @ Stanley Park

Lion's Gate Bridge, Vancouver, BC

On the way back to the hostel I stopped for dinner and checked emails.

Once I got back to the hostel I met David (from England), who I’m sharing a room with. We went down to the Fox & Firken on Davie Street for a couple of beers, ending the night not long after 10pm. When we got back to the room we stayed up and talked for hours with our other roommate Philippe (from Quebec).

Sunday, May 14, 2000

Victoria, BC to Vancouver, BC

I some how managed to turn my alarm off this morning without knowing it and slept past the time when I was meant to be catching the bus. I caught one at 11am, heading towards Schwartz Bay (an hour’s ride). From here I jumped on the ferry to take me to Tsawwassen. The ferry takes 2 hours and I enjoy the magnificent serene views from the sun-drenched deck. You can see the snow-capped coastal mountains behind the forest and islands all the way. Another 2 buses get me into downtown Vancouver, and at the hostel at 3pm. On the way I ran into Dave (a guy I met briefly at the Violent Femmes last week in Seattle). He tells me the Melvins are playing here Wednesday – so it looks like I’m here for 4 nights.

Passing Ferry On My Way To Vancouver, BC

After I check in I realize that I hadn’t eaten today, so head up to dinner at Denny’s on the corner for a huge meal.

Once I’ve eaten I wander around aimlessly for a while before checking some emails. Vancouver seems like a pretty city, so tomorrow it’s out with the camera. Back at the hostel I sit outside and read. It is really quiet here (maybe everyone’s out), so I will make the most of the relaxation.

Saturday, May 13, 2000

Victoria, BC

After a good night’s sleep I rang the Dublin household and spoke to Kern, Marbs and Regs, but I will call back later as they are having a party this evening and more people are due to arrive soon.

I went to a cafĂ© for breakfast, the same as yesterdays, to work out what to do for the day. It was decided that I’d go to the Royal British Columbia Museum, between the Empress Hotel and the Parliament. And I am so glad I did. Started in the gallery titled “Out Of The Mist” – which provided heaps of the Pacific Northwest Indian art that I love. Unfortunately there is no book that I can find to buy with a good showing of this art. Once again I couldn’t get enough of this art – would love to have a tattoo of it (who knows – one day).

Next was the Natural History Gallery, which gives an indication of what does, and has, lived in the area over the past millions of years. There is also a small exhibit within this one, which is about the ocean. On the next floor was the First People’s Gallery – which showed the history of Native Indians and the effect on them because of the settlement of Europeans. More art and totem poles and a history that seems not dissimilar from the Aboriginies at home. The last exhibit was a Modern History of Canada – from early European settlements onwards. This I whipped through quickly and didn’t really take an interest in.

Just outside the museum is Thunderbird Park. In the park are around fifteen totem poles, which provided me with plenty of photo opportunities.

Thunderbird Park, Victoria, British Columbia

Mungo Martin House, Victoria, British Columbia

I found a phone booth and called the Dublin house again. Things were in full swing and everyone sounded like they were into it. I got to speak to Kern, Luvo, Roberta, JJ, Karla and Bert. It made me wish I were there. It was good to speak to them and I am looking forward to seeing them soon. However, I still have a lot to see in North America.

I don’t know where the day went, but I didn’t get back to the hostel until 6pm. I found a cheap, but average, pizza place around the corner for dinner and then hung out until it got dark.

At 9pm, armed with my camera, I headed out into the streets. Parliament House is beautifully lit; so I go a bit snap happy. I stopped on the way home to watch a busker, who has the crowd enthralled, and get roped into collecting money for him when he throws me his hat at the end of the performance. I got back to the hostel just after 11pm and went straight to bed.

Friday, May 12, 2000

Victoria, BC

Today looks magic – nice, sunny and warm. Because it’s such a great day, I decide that a walk is on the cards.

I walked around the inner harbor and just kept going. I followed the southern coastline for about 4 kilometers and would have kept going, except the map that I had was minimal, and I lost the street that I had started on. Instead of walking back the way I came, I wandered through the suburbs in the hope that it would lead me back into town.

Totem Pole & Parliament House, Victoria, BC

After an hour and a half I came across the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria. This was only a small gallery, but still interesting nonetheless. Its two main exhibits were both by locals. Richard Hunt is a native Indian whose art, masks and totem poles occupy 2 rooms. Hunt is a traditional artist who on occasions mixes this with a modern style. He also combines his art with his other passion, golf, with amusing results. CD Hoy was a Chinese immigrant who lived in Victoria during its early years. His photography of local people covers the early 1900’s. It shows the integration of nature, immigrant and English settlers and how people were encouraged to adapt to the English ways.

From the gallery it was about 15 blocks back into town.  My only stop on the way back in was to call Mum and Kel.  Once in town I bought myself a souvenir, a necklace with a pewter orca. It is meant to symbolize strength. I also bought one for Phil, which is to symbolize friendship. This was in return for the watch he gave me.

Victoria’s Parliament Buildings run a half an hour tour through the building, which gives you a rundown of the history of government rule and the building, which is over 100 years old. Their style of government, based on the English model, is virtually identical to that of state government at home.
I got some photos of the surrounding building before heading back to the hostel. Here I met up with two Marks (one from Brisbane, one from Balmain) and we headed to the Keg for dinner and a couple of beers.

When returned to the hostel I rang Amy and spoke to her for near 3 hours. She’s off to Italy tomorrow, so we had to make the most of it.

I did more walking today than I expected, so went to bed relatively early and slept like a log.

Thursday, May 11, 2000

Seattle, WA to Victoria, BC, Canada

I was up at the crack of dawn this morning to get to Pier 69 to catch my ferry to Victoria. It’s another cloudy day, and while I originally wanted to sit outside, it was way too cold to do so. I sat with 2 couples from Chicago who were heading to Victoria for day trip. They were good company for the journey, as the predicted spectacular views were cut short because of the inclement weather.

Victoria, Vancouver Island, BC From The Ferry

The boat arrived at 11am and once again I was singled out by customs (at least they were friendly), but maybe I need an image overhaul.

The hostel is a pleasant twenty-minute walk around the harbor, and as soon as I checked in and found my room, I was out again exploring this town. Victoria is a lot bigger than I expected (I was thinking along the lines of Port Townsend again), but what am I to know. I stuck pretty much to the shopping area, just walking east to west and then north to south along about ten streets. The Canadian dollar is a lot more favorable for the traveling Aussie, so I went all out on a nice Chinese lunch. After lunch I crossed the bridge and followed the path along the harbourside – just taking in the view.

By the time I got back to the hostel it was 5pm. I was going to take it easy for the night, and it took all of about 2 minutes to fall in to an hour’s snooze.

I got some dinner and then headed up to the cinema to see Gladiator. This is a great movie. The best part being how Rome would have looked in all its glory (I so badly want to go back). The movie went for 3 hours but it was so good you didn’t even notice.

When I got back to the hostel I checked my emails and had another marathon phone call with Amy. She leaves for Italy on Saturday, so tomorrow will be the last time I talk to her before I see her in person.

The hostel room is the biggest I have ever seen. 48 beds (but broken up into sections of 8).

Wednesday, May 10, 2000

Seattle, WA

Did my usual cheap doughnut breakfast again this morning before heading up to 2nd and Union Streets to catch bus 174 out to the Museum of Flight. The museum is 20 minutes south of the city on the bus and the last of the city pass tickets I will use (I am leaving tomorrow so I will not get to the zoo). The museum has a number of aircraft on display, ranging from hang gliders to air force fighters to an Apollo exhibit. It wasn’t really my cup of tea, but filled in some time. Typically, the main exhibit, an Air Force One Presidential Plane, was closed for maintenance.

I caught the bus back into town and had some lunch then started to make my way out to the Seattle Asian Art Museum. I walked for about half an hour and then realized I wasn’t event half way there, when I came across a huge outdoors store, REI. I went in and had a look around for a while. They have an indoor climbing wall, which I watched people climb for ages.

Afterwards I headed to the waterfront, where I purchased a ticket for tomorrow to Victoria in British Columbia, Canada. I have no idea what’s there, but a 2 hour ferry ride sounds like a good way to get there, just hope I can get here before the 7am departure.

I went back to the hostel via the Pike Place Markets to again eat my banana roll dinner.


I went back out later that night to take some photos (Pike Place lit up at night, the bands listed at the Showbox where I saw the Rollins Band, and steam coming out of manholes). When I got back to the hostel I rang Amy again and spoke forever. It was over 2 hours we had spoken for and we made many a plan for the near future, like when I come back to see her after she has been to Italy and maybe a cross country trip together.

Tuesday, May 9, 2000

Seattle, WA

A bit of a sleep in this morning (9.30am is the worst it has been in a while).

After a shower, I walked the block south to the Seattle Art Museum. Here I walked through the two floors, which contained a huge variety of art. On the first floor I particularly liked the Chinese and Japanese rooms, as well as the Pacific Northwest Native American room – I have instantly fallen in love with this type of art. By using very simple shapes and minimal color, these artists are able to project images (usually of animals and their relativity to the human spirit) that is very distinctive. On the next floor there was a Liechtenstein exhibit. Roy Liechtenstein was a leader in the pop-art movement of the 60’s and 70’s. More new art I was exposed to and enjoyed. I also liked the exhibition from the original Seattle Camera Club. Black and white photos from the early 30’s.

I had just enough time to make my way from the art museum down to pioneer place, to join the 1pm Underground Tour. When fire ravaged Seattle in 1889, it was decided to raise the level of the city. Roads were raised by using landfill from the debris of the fire, but sidewalks were covered later and left empty underneath. The 90 minute tour takes us through some of these areas, showing us where shop fronts and homes used to enter into the street, but are now covered by the footpath above. Our tour guide, John, was informative and funny. His detail of the history of the city was very interesting.

John suggested that a look in the Klondike Gold Rush Museum was worth the effort. So after lunch I walked the few blocks in the rain to the museum in Main Street. The museum is run by the National Parks and Wildlife people. Unbelievably I was the only one there. The ranger was more than happy to tell me about the history behind the area. Gold was discovered by prospectors in northwest Canada at the same time as the Depression in the late 1800’s. To get to these fields people had to leave Seattle via boat to the Canadian coast (1000 miles), climb a pass and then make there way some 500 miles down the Yukon River. Seattle boomed economically at this time as boats had to be built to transport the people, supplies were needed, as Canadian authorities demanded that entering prospectors had a years supply of food and clothing, as harsh winters bought shortages. Because 4 train lines lead to Seattle, the city boomed financially from a gold rush 1500 miles away.

I walked around 4th and 5th Avenues before heading back to the hostel for a banana roll dinner. A phone call to Amy lead to an hour and a half chat.

Monday, May 8, 2000

Seattle, WA

Because of the snorers in the room, I didn’t sleep well again last night. I’ll have to get me some earplugs today.

I walked down to the Seattle Art Museum, but it was closed for the day, so instead I went back to the waterfront. Today is more like I expected Seattle to be weather wise ie wet, dreary and not chance of it clearing up. At the waterfront I went to the Aquarium. The Aquarium displays the wildlife of Puget Sound, as well as displays on coral reefs. The highlight of the aquarium was seeing a baby sea otter. Not only had I not seen one before, but also the baby was only 2 weeks old. Its interaction with its mother kept the crowds entertained for hours.

When I came out of the aquarium the Imax next door was playing a movie about Egypt. Because Egypt is one of the places I desperately want to go to, I went in to watch. It was a good movie, with some awesome scenery, which has fuelled my desire to get there as soon as possible.

From the Imax I walked through the city, stopping at Pike Place for a cinnamon doughnut lunch, taking my time, up to the Pacific Science Centre (next to the Space Needle). My city pass ticket included another Imax film, which I went into straight away. This film was a documentary about dolphins, and a good one at that. A lot of the filming was done in the Bahamas, and with only 4 weeks until I’m there I now have a taste for it. Once the film was over I wandered around the Science Centre. It had exhibits on dinosaurs, the body – which tested my weight (OK), strength (good), heart attack and cancer risk (average?!?) and heart rates, stress levels and cholesterol (all OK but could be better), and technology. All up I was there near on 3 hours.

Once again I walked back through the city, to the camera store to pick up some copies of photos from yesterday’s film, and back to the hostel. Rang Amy and spoke to her for 45 minutes. It’s only been 4 days since I left (and 9 since I met her) but I miss her like crazy. I am now planning on going back to Portland once Amy gets back from her trip to Italy, and before I go to the Bahamas.


2 blocks from the Seattle Youth Hostel is the Showbox Theatre and tonight the Rollins Band played.

The support band was an English band called Apartment 26, who are best described as heavy/electro/rock. I thought they were all right, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to see them again.

Rollins Band came on at 10 and were on fire. Henry takes his rock very seriously and intensely. It is hard to see him with that intensity after seeing how funny he is with his spoken word performances. Because the band had a new line up, they only played one old song, “Tearing”. The rest was stuff off Get Some Go Again, the latest album. This was a minor setback, but not enough to mar an awesome show. Bought a tshirt that became my Seattle souvenir.



The Crap Facts
This is my 185th concert.
The Showbox is the 47th venue I've seen a concert.
This is my 2nd concert in Seattle.
This is my 2nd concert in Washington.
This is my 2nd concert in the USA.
Apartment 26 are the 244th band I've seen.
This is my 4th Rollins Band concert.

Sunday, May 7, 2000

Seattle, WA

Today was meant to start in Pike Place Market, but it seems that only the fresh food stores are open on Sunday. So Matt and I walk up to Seattle’s Space Needle (their Centrepoint Tower), where I buy a City Pass Ticket, which gets me into Space Needle, The Aquarium, Science Museum, Seattle Art Museum, Flight Museum and the zoo. We go up the 180-metre tower, which gives a great view over the city and Puget Sound.

Me @ Seattle's Space Needle

When we come down we walk along the waterfront, past all the piers and their attractions. We had pizza for lunch – and tried to push all you can eat to new levels. After this Matt left, as he heads back home to San Francisco via Portland. I continue to hang around the waterfront, while waiting for some film to be developed from the wedding. It’s a beautiful afternoon, but too late to start anything, so I enjoy the sun before walking south along the water and then back up First Street to the hostel. Here I rang Amy and spoke for half an hour – I hate that it’s going to be 2 weeks before I see her again. The rest of the evening is spent catching up with my diary and sending emails and working out what to do tomorrow.

Saturday, May 6, 2000

Port Townsend, WA to Seattle, WA

We left Port Townsend at 10am this morning and headed to Port Angeles, about 50 miles west of where we are. We arrive at midday and while Matt has his meeting, I’m left to my own devices. The first thing I did was call Amy. How is it after knowing her for less than a week, and leaving her only 2 days ago, I pine for her like nothing else? (Rhetorical – as I already know the answer). We spoke for an hour and would’ve kept going except there were other people wanting to use the phone. The other hour was spent floating around Port Angeles – up and down the main the main street and down by the harbor (a couple of photos for the memory).

I met up with Matt again at 2pm and we headed off to Seattle. To do so we drove back to Port Townsend to catch a ferry across to Keystone (half an hour). We then drove half an hour to Clinton, where another quick ferry got us to Mukilteo. From there it’s an hour’s drive south down the I-5 to Seattle. We got to the hostel at 6pm.

I got everything settled before having a quick bite to eat and deciding on what to do.

We decided to chance our luck and see if we could get tickets to the Violent Femmes at the Moore Theatre . We got tickets from the box office, for about a third of the price as what you would pay in Oz, general admission, walked in, and found seats in the row behind the dance floor – incredible. We got there half way through the support act, El Destroyo, and at 9pm the Femmes came on stage. They started off playing oldschool (“Promise”, “Black Girls” and “Blister In The Sun”, etc for which the crowd went apeshit) for about 40 minutes. Then they played some stuff I didn’t know – I assumed it is from their new album “Freak Magnet”. The band seemed a lot more enthused during the second half of the set, and when the band was joined by the singer’s brother and sister the band looked really ready to rock. Once they played “Old Mother Reagan” both crowd and band were fully pumped. The last part of the gig saw a mix of new and old stuff, which the crowd lapped up. “American Music”, “Add It Up”, “Gone Daddy Gone” and “Freak Magnet”. The band played for 2 hours before doing “Kiss Off” as their encore. I am so glad we went. All that from about five metres away from the band. Went back to the hostel buzzing.

Violent Femmes Setlist The Moore Theatre, Seattle, WA, USA 2000

The Crap Facts
This is my 184th concert.
Moore Theater is the 46th venue I've seen a concert in.
Seattle is the 34th city I've seen a concert in.
Washington is the 5th state I've seen a concert in.
The USA is the 3rd country I've seen a concert in.
El Destroyo are the 243rd band I've seen in.
This is my 4th Violent Femmes concert.