Local H @ Radio Room

It's not that I didn't want to see Local H, but the thought of the two hour drive each way was so off-putting that I almost didn't go.  But in the last 2 years, I was going to see them while we were on holiday near Myrtle Beach, but Covid made me wary of being indoors, I had tickets to the 2 shows they were going to do at the Evening Muse that were cancelled, and then I injured myself at the kids' soccer practice the night they rescheduled.  I had to go.

The drive down was pretty easy, once I got past Gastonia, even with all the work happening on I85.  I arrived at the easily found Radio Room just before 8 pm.  Great venue!  Medium sized room, walled off down the middle, with the bar on one side and the stage on the other.

Scott Lucas walked through the crowd, onto the stage, alone to start the night with All The Kids Are Right, solo and acoustic.  Took a request, The One With Kid, which he prefaced would be shit, but I thought was great.  After his 4th solo, Eddie Vedder, the rest of the band joined him for 3 more acoustic songs, including Buffalo Tom's Smothered In Hugs.  After that the band plugged in and started rocking.  The next 4 songs built up to a frenzy finishing with All Right (Oh Yeah) and Fritz's Corner.  And just when the crowd were on edge, ready to explode, they left the stage.

A short while later, dressed as Local H mechanics, the band walked through the now large crowd and came back to play Here Comes The Zoo from start to finish.  I'm not familiar with this album, but Hands On The Bible was a great starter.  5th Ave. Crazy definitely got the crowd moving.  Rock n Roll Professionals (my aha! moment on the outfits) is a great song, as is the follow up Keep Your Girlfriend Away From Me.  Bryn-Mawr Stomp is a rocker, but the closer, What Would You Have Me Do?, settled the crowd back down.  Without leaving the stage Local H then played a killer 5-song "encore".  California Songs started it off.  And it was a pearler of a version.  The band kept holding back the parts where the song breaks out.  It was fun to watch the crowd get ready to go, and the impending confusion.  But when it finally happened the crowd were into it.  Straight into Bound For The Floor, with a much-loved-by-the-crowd snippet of Chicago's 25 or 6 and 4 in the middle.  Two great covers - The Georgia Satellites' Keep Your Hands To Yourself and Misfits' Static Age - preceded the closer.  My favorite Local H song, High Fivin' MF, was played with all the power and energy that I remember from the first time I heard that song at the Equinox Festival in 1997.  And throw in a snippet of Fleetwood Mac's Tusk - MWAH!  Perfection!

Having seen some bands from my youth lately, I've noticed they have slowed down their sound.  Sometimes their songs don't have the same energy anymore.  Local H are the opposite.  They may be playing faster and with more energy than ever.   It was an awesome show and I'm glad I forced myself to drive down to Greenville for the show.  Till next time....

Local H Setlist

The guy who filmed this was standing 2 people in front of me.  I normally don't like people filming shows, but he was against the wall, very unassuming, and most importantly, not blocking anyone.  Video and audio on this is great.

Here Comes The Zoo Set

Encore

The Crap Facts:

This is my 481st concert.
The Radio Room is the 132nd venue I've seen a concert in.
This is my 2nd show in Greenville.
This is my 5th show in South Carolina.
This is my 284th concert in the US.
This is my 6th Local H show.

The Menzingers, Touche Amore & Screaming Females @ The Underground

So it's another show where I I am into the opening acts and have no idea about the headliner.

I had the fortune of seeing the Screaming Females on Last Call with Carson Daly many years ago.  They seemed awesome and not long after we moved to Charlotte I was lucky enough to see them at the Milestone, where they absolutely killed it.  The last time they were in Charlotte I already had tickets to Bloc Party, so to hear they were going to play with Touche Amore I was stoked.  The band came on stage to little fanfare, and proceeded to plough through 7 songs in a half hour set.  Melissa Paternoster is a powerhouse!  How that commanding voice comes out of that small frame defies logic, all while tearing up the guitar.  I remember thinking the band still sound great, but now more polished than the punier 2013 show.  As I age I find I am not learning song names anymore, but I need to for this band, because their set was great.  I need to listen to my Live at The Hideout record, as well as the All At Once record I bought at the show.

Screaming Females Setlist

It's been just on a year since I discovered Touche Amore, and was glad I saw them blow Thrice off the stage in the same venue this time last year.  Opening for another band was not a problem bringing the people in to see this great band.  From the get go, Touche Amore were rocking.  And the crowd responded in kind.  Although a short set, they played a lot of songs familiar to me, with Rapture (early in the set) a crowd pleaser.  I need them to come back and headline their own show, as Flowers and You closing the set after after 40 minutes just left you wanting more.

Touche Amore Setlist

The Menzingers are a band I've not come across, and here they are playing a whole album, On The Impossible Past, to celebrate a 10th anniversary.  A good size crowd arrived early to see Screaming Females and Touche Amore, but now they were all packed in close to the front.  The Menzingers are a fun punk / pop band whose fans are dedicated.  Drew and I seemed to be the only people in the venue that didn't know this band.  There was a lot of synchronized pogoing happening early in the set, which (I don't know why) I find off putting in a band Rise Against does it with cross stage skipping....I know I know, I'm just a cranky old man.  The songs seemed good, but there was no stand out for me, and Drew and I left before it was all over. Having said that - as always - Menzinger fans looked like they were having a blast.  It just didn't float my boat.  All in all a good night though, and considering I don't have tickets for any other shows, I'd be happy if this was my last concert of the year.....though I can always see more.

The Menzingers Setlist

The Crap Facts:
This is my 480th concert.
This is my 8th show at The Underground
This is my 96th show in Charlotte
This is my 114th show in North Carolina.
This is my 283rd concert in the US.
This is my 2nd Screaming Females show.

This is my 2nd Touche Amore show

The Menzingers are the 553rd band I've seen

Melvins @ The Visulite

After the fiasco of missing Billy Bragg last week, because I had Covid, it's good to be back at a concert again.  

I arrived at The Visulite just in time to get earplugs in, as Buzz walked off stage after doing a sound check.  I had a great spot in the small front area, right in front of Buzz.  And it's a good size crowd (considering it's Charlotte on a Tuesday).  It was only 10 minutes later the Melvins were back on stage, to a pretty good sized crowd.  As much as I love to see the Melvins, I still know so few songs, except for anything off the Houdini album.  The Flipper cover Sacrifice was a great start and it wasn't long before the much loved Lizzy was played.  Man that's such a good song.  And it plays even better live.  The Melvins dynamics remind me a lot of Dinosaur Jr on stage.  Buzz is all business (like J. Mascis), while Steven is having his own private party - especially covering (?) Red Kross' Charlie - (like Lou Barlow), and in between Dale drives and balances the 2 (like Murph).  It's a great dynamic, though it makes it hard to keep your eyes on just one performer.  My other highlight came close tot he end of the set with a Hooch and Honey Bucket double.  I'd pay money just to see Honey Bucket on it's own - an absolute all time favorite song - and tonight did not disappoint.  If Covid hadn't made me so tired all the time I'd go to Greenville tomorrow night just to hear that song.  Just over the hour mark, Melvins finish with With Teeth and a pretty good sized Charlotte crowd had been suitably rocked.

This is the 3rd time I've seen the Melvins in Charlotte, as well as a Buzz solo show.  They are one of few bands that always include Charlotte on their tours (as well as doing a show at the Cat's Cradle) and I am forever grateful.  Most bands tend to play Chapel Hill or Asheville and skip Charlotte, but I'm sure it won't be long till the Melvins come back through town, and I look forward to being there.

Melvins setlist

The Crap Facts:

This is my 479th concert.
This is my 12th show at The Visulite
This is my 95th show in Charlotte
This is my 113th show in North Carolina.
This is my 282nd concert in the US.
This is my 10th Melvins show.

Jim Jefferies @ Ovens Auditorium

As always it's hard to describe what happens at a comedy show because most of the time your still laughing from the last joke to fully understand what is currently going on.

Jeffries was awesome, as expected.  We've never invited anyone to a Jim Jeffries show before because, even though they would be friends of ours, you don't know how people would react to some of the jokes.  But once you realize he is antagonistic to everyone, it's easy to enjoy the show.   I took Mike with me as A was out of town for work and he loved it.  He's now had the double dose of Aussie culture with Celeste Barber, and now Jim Jeffries.  As an expat I loved the bits about Coon cheese and Golden Gaytimes - and picking on the dude in the front row from some Sydney private school (you tell the Aussies in the crowd - we all booed him).  A shout out has to go to both of Jeffries openers but particularly the Aussie bloke (whose name slips my mind), who did a great little set about Queen Elizabeth, a day after her death.  It was respectful, but funny, but could only possibly be the first time he had done it given the time frame.

A great night, can't wait for the next tour.

Jack White & Cautious Clay @ CMCU Amphitheater

An actual nice summer evening in Charlotte and A & I get to the venue early enough to catch Cautious Clay open the evening.  A mix of soul, R&B, jazz and smooth rock, this guy is talented.  In the space of a 45 minute sand he sang with the voice of an angel, played guitar, saxophone and clarinet.  We even got a bit of beat-box-flute.  Definitely not the kind of opener I'd match with what was about to happen, but a good start nonetheless.

A DJ who spoke louder than the music playing filled the space as road crews broke down and set up, and I knew the set was going to be great when he played Melvins' Honeybucket to bring Jack White and band onto the stage.  The band started with a warm up jam and when White arrived on stage, engines were already at 60 and within seconds exploded to 100.  Taking Me Back had the crowd going from the beginning.  Black Math, 3 songs in, was a barn burner, as would be all the White Stripes songs he played.  A mid-set Hotel Yorba and Fell In Love With A Girl was a highlight for the night for me.  It took us back to 2003 seeing the White Stripes in Vegas not long after we moved there.  White played tight with the band.  Sometimes it looked like they were just playing for each other and not a 3,000 strong sold out crowd.  Yet the energy the four-piece put out was pulsating.  There was no rest for band or crowd alike until after We Are Going To Be Friends and I'm Slowly Turning Into You finished the set.  It was a quick break before the band were back on and the Raconteur's Steady As She Goes got the crowd going again.  What's The Trick from his latest album preceded the last song.  Everyone knew it was coming but I wasn't expecting the high energy reaction to Seven Nation Army that Charlotte gave.  Was a great finish to a great night.

I've now seen The White Stripes, The Raconteurs & Jack White, and would happily go back tomorrow to see any of them again.

Jack White Setlist

The Crap Facts:
This is my 478th concert.
This is my 13th show at CMCU Amphitheater
This is my 94th show in Charlotte
This is my 112th show in North Carolina.
This is my 281st concert in the US.
Cautious Clay are the 551st band I've seen
Jack White is the 552nd band I’ve seen.

Jack White is the 200th time I've seen a band in North Carolina.

Litchfield Beach

The end of another summer and it was back down to our favorite beach spot for a week of sun and sea.  We did nothing exceptional but basically went from condo, to beach (where again we used the cabana provided by Sand & Sea), to pool with variations only out to dinner (Hot Fish Club in Murrell's Inlet - ok but we always forget how overpriced Murrel's Inlet is, J. Peters - a first time bar & grill - a good meal, Chive Blossom - every year, always the best and BisQit - another new casual place and we are big fans) and our favorite donut (Parlor) and ice cream places (Paradice).  

So little did we do, that I only took 1 photo of the week.

MDB&L @ Paradice Ice Cream, Pawleys Island, SC

Everclear @ Village Park

I can't believe it has been 13 years since I last saw Everclear (back in Vegas, before kids) but I made the 45-minute drive up to Kannapolis to check out this free show, despite the doom and gloom the weather had in mind.  I'd been hearing about storms all afternoon, so it was always going to be last minute before I left the house.  I even gave up the chance to see Charlotte FC again tonight.  That's where A and the boys ended up.

While I wanted to see Fastball as well I arrived about 10 minutes before the end of their set and it was still raining, so I sat in my car.  I did hear them finish with The Way, not realizing that was their song.  Everclear was due on at 9.15pm, so I left the comfort of the dry car with 5 minutes to spare and walked over to find the park full of families ready to rock - I can't imagine how many people would've been there if the weather was bad.

And it was good from the get go!  Electra Made Me Blind straight into a slowed-down version of Heroin Girl.  I remember this from last time, songs weren't played quite as fast as I remembered them - I kept singing ahead of the band.  Father Of Mine was a big hit with the crowd.  When asked to sing, they turned it on for this song.  The second half of the set, saw fewer songs I new, but I Will Buy You A New Life was great.  I had been right down the front to the right of stage the whole show and the sound wasn't great (a mistake I continue to make), and as usual I found the group of people that needed to talk incessantly throughout the show.  Shut up or fuck off!  Why are you even here?  Anyway I moved back to behind the mixing desk where the sound was great (though my eyesight is fading rapidly).  A grungy version of Thin Lizzy's The Boys Are Back In Town (with the Nixon's Zac Maloy sharing lead vocals) was followed by the eagerly received Santa Monica.  As it finished I was near the exit, ready to leave like a Progressive commercial, when Everclear squeezed in The Vasoline's Molly's Lips to close out the night.  

A great night and a show from a great band.  You could tell they were happy to be playing, both in general and because it looked like the weather could have ruined the whole night.  It seemed like the band enjoyed the family atmosphere.  And while I revel in the sound and speed of Everclear when I first saw them in 1996, this version still knows how to rock a crowd, even after 30 years.  I'll be back to see them next time they come through town - and will also keep and eye open for more shows at this great little amphitheater.

Everclear Setlist

The Crap Facts:
This is my 477th concert.
Village Park is the 131st venue I've seen a concert in.
Kannapolis is the 55th city I've seen a concert in.
This is my 111th show in North Carolina.
This is my 280th concert in the US.
This is my 4th Everclear show.

Charlotte FC v DC United @ Bank Of America Stadium

Because we had considered purchasing season tickets to Charlotte FC last year, we had a $100 credit to use.  So while looking for things to do with the boys in summer vacation, a football match seemed like a great idea, especially after how great the first game was.

Was great to run into a mate, Daniel from Trader Joes, on the way in.  What are the chances?  I didn't know he volunteered for the club.  We'll have a lot to talk about next time I see him.  We sat down in the lower section again (such good seats), further away for the supporters section, but this time with fewer people around us.  We went the whole experience and made a mortgage payment to have dinner in the stadium and got to our seats just before the national anthem.  Not sure if  it is now a tradition for FC games, but the singer of the anthem only sang the first 2 lines, and let the crowd take over.

Down to business and it wasn't long before a play down the left wing, in front of us, was crossed and a Swiderski header rebounded in for an own goal and we were 1-0 up.  We then kept control of the first half and while we were unable to add to the score Charlotte FC looked good.  McKenzie Gaines down the right side was fast.  Blistering speed made a mockery of the DC defense a few times.  At the break we went for a drink refill and we were back in our seats for the start of the 2nd half.  DC came out stronger in the 2nd, but in the 64th minute a parried save by DC keeper Romo only fell as far as Swiderski who had the easiest of tap ins.  And then 3 minutes later another Romo save fell to Gaines whose cross back made for an easy finish for Quinn McNeil.  And with that Charlotte killed DC's hope of a win.  Again Charlotte took control for the rest of the game for a comfortable win.  

Was good to see Charlotte win, and I feel they are doing alright for a first season team, we just need to get some better results on the road and push for a playoff spot.

It says the attendance tonight was 31,250, but I don't think to came close to that.  The upper deck was not opened at all and the lower deck was not 2/3 full.  I'm sure that's how many tickets were sold, but it would be more accurate to know how many people were there.

Charlotte FC 3 (Steve Birnbaum (13' OG), Karol Swiderski (64'), Quinn McNeill (67')) v DC United 0

Attendance: 31,520.

Charlotte: K. Kahlina, A. Walkes, G. Corujo, J. Mora, H. Afful, B. Bronico, Q. McNeil (D. Jones), Y. Reyna (A. Shinyashiki), M. Gaines, K. Swiderski (D. Rios), B. Bender (J. Alcivar).

DC United: . R. Romo,  B. Hines-Ike (T. Alfaro), S. Birnbaum, S. Guediri, C. Odoi-Atsem (A. Najar), R. Morrison (S. Djeffal), R. Canouse (M. Berry), C. Durkin, T. Fountas (M. Rodriguez), O. Kamara, J. Hopkins

Black Keys & Band Of Horses @ PNC Pavilion

God! It's so hot!  I do not like the Carolina's in the summer.

Anyway, after the boys liked Paul McCartney, we decided that the Black Keys would be another good show for them so when they started selling $25 tickets for the lawn, it seemed like a bargain.

I am not a fan of seeing shows at PNC Pavilion.  It's soo big and Live Nation have made it worse by ridiculous fees on tickets and penny pinching in general ($10 extra for an isle seat...really?).  Mom decided rock n roll on a school night was too much, so the boys and I headed up to the show in the 90 degree heat.  Band of Horses had already started, we could hear them in the parking lot.  It was easy to get in (not like last time with ZZ Top) and we found our way to the back of the lawn.  Bought some drinks, and was headed over to the merchandise stand, when we ran into Sanders.  All the Guignards were there - for E & B's first concert, so we set up camp with them in the middle at the front of the lawn.  Band of Horses continued their set in the background.  I don't know their stuff, but the crowd down the front definitely did, and they were into it.

Band of Horses Setlist

Not long after 9.15pm, the Black Keys hit the stage, to a not very full venue. It's been better if they'd sold out the smaller amphitheater Uptown instead. Howlin' for You, the 2nd song got everyone going, but by the time they played Tighten Up, B had hit the wall and faded to the blanket. The band was good, but the sound wasn't the best - just typical for a big venue, and I kept falling into the trap of watching the screens instead of the actual band. They played enough songs spread out to keep L interested.  Gold On The Ceiling, Do The Rump and Have Love Will Travel were highlights through the middle of the set.  When the set finished we decided we'd be right at the back for the encore to make the quick escape when it was all over.  Little Black Submarines and L's favorite, Lonely Boy, finished the night (and seemed to revitalize B).  The boys said they had a good time, but I think B was being polite - he and E gave up pretty early (the Guignards left before the set was over).  I hope they enjoy concerts as much as I do in the future - once they get used to staying up late.

Black Keys Setlist

The Crap Facts:

This is my 476th concert.
This is my 4th show at PNC Pavilion 
This is my 93rd show in Charlotte
This is my 110th show in North Carolina.
This is my 279th concert in the US.
Band Of Horses are the 550th band I've seen

This is my 5th Black Keys show.

Herculaneum, Italy to Rome, Italy

While the boys and I packed up the apartment, A headed back to Il Tartufo for a variety of pastries for breakfast.

We left for Herculaneum at 10am and arrived in no time.

Herculaneum is about a quarter of the size of Pompeii and there at 10% of the people, making the feel a little more comfortable. The structures here are also in better shape. Lots of art, mosaics and buildings in complete form. It’s hot again today, but with fewer people, and the ease to find shade, it seems a lot easier to get around. Our tour starts at the Terrace of Marcus Nonius Balbus. The Casa di Servi was our first stop, but it was the Casa del Bicentenario that first caught our eye. This 2-storey home was large and airy. Many frescos on the wall and a well maintained “doormat” mosaic. Next to it is Augusteum, the arch, which leads to Sede Degli Augustali, a one-time religious building. Augustali is in sublime condition. Whole walls covered in frescos, as well as the Plaque to Augustus. Casa di Nettuno e Anfitrite was out next stop. These were the women’s baths, and again these 200-year-old buildings are just in magnificent shape. The Termini Centrali had wonderful marine-themed apodyterium mosaic. Stops into a couple more houses bought an end to our 3 hours in Herculaneum. A better day heat and people wise from yesterday, but just as amazing an archeological site as yesterday. A great finale to 2 weeks of non-stop history.

Herculaneum, Italy

Casa del Bicentenario, Herculaneum, Italy

Casa di Nettuno e Anfitrite, Herculaneum, Italy

L, D & B, Sedi Degli Augustali, Herculaneum, Italy

D, L, B & M, Herculaneum, Italy

Just outside the park is La Terra d’Ercole, where we climb the thin spiral stairs to have lunch. In the heat it’s pizza, pasta and salad and a bucket of water trying to hydrate.

After lunch we’re back on the road for the drive to Hotel Isola Scora near the Rome Airport, where we’ll spend the last night. The boys are dying to get back in the pool, and it’s a great way to cool off after this morning and the 3-hour drive from Herculaneum. The hotel is nice and we have 2 rooms.

As the sun went down, we drove out to Fiumicino and had dinner at a restaurant on the canal (across from the Coast Guard – I don’t remember the name of it). The food was good, and a perfect non-touristy end to this awesome vacation. This is a local’s area, but as a street by the canal, it is lined with restaurants and bars, and by the time we left the whole area was jumping. Of course, we didn’t miss out on one last chance at gelato, as we picked up an order from Gelateria Polo Nord.

What a great couple of weeks – Sunday morning we returned the car and made an easy trip into the airport. Made our flight with plenty of time, and it was a smooth, uneventful ride home. I (and I’m sure the family) had a great time. It was great to be in Italy with some money and time. So different from 24 years ago, backpacking in a tent in Rome and Florence. The best part was sharing it all with A and the boys. I really hope they appreciate this in ears to come. And for the opportunity to spend this time with Pops and NanNan made it all the more special.

Pompeii, Italy

We got up this morning and prepared for our day at Pompeii. We walked out to the car but not before stopping at Il Tartufo Pasticceria & Caffe for a pastry breakfast.

We are about 4 miles from Pompeii but traffic, both volume and ferocity, means it’s a slow trip before we find a parking lot near a grocery store and walk back to the entrance. We have tickets already, so it’s straight in for us. We’re in not long after 10 am, and begin our 3 hours in the heat around this unshaded archeological marvel.

It's hot! Hotter than hell. And there is no escaping it here. These ruins, caused by Mt. Vesuvius’ eruption in AD 79 took the roofs off a majority of buildings, giving you very few opportunities to hide from the sun.

You enter and the first site you see is the Quadriportico, a grassed courtyard leading to the Teatro Piccolo. We walked up Via Stabiana and took a left on Via dell’Abbondanza and stopped into all the open rooms we could, including a Roman Kitchen, Terme Stabiane, and the House of the Wild Boar, with it’s beautiful, intact floor mosaics. The street leads to the southern end of the Forum. On approach you see the Centaur Statue, but once you get into the open Forum you get this sweeping view of Pompeii with Vesuvius in the background to the north. The mountain still looms ominously over the tragic site, that has become a modern marvel.

B, M & L, Via Stabiana, Pompeii, Italy

House of the Wild Boar, Pompeii, Italy

Mt. Vesuvius, Pompeii, Italy

The heat has already become too much and we seek refuge and rehydrate in a general store before the rest of the self-guided tour.

North through the Forum takes us up to Casa del Poeta Tragico, where we saw the well preserved and likely oldest, “Beware of the Dog” sign, in the shape of another black and white floor tiling. A brief step North-west on Via della Fortuna took us to Casa del Fauno, with its exquisite courtyard and gardens. A quick stop in Casa di Marco Lucrezio and Casa del Larario di Achille for some pictures of some of the artwork was had before we walked down to Orto dei Fuggiaschi, where the preserved ashen bodies of some of Vesuvius’ victims lie on display. This is really eerie, yet well and truly fascinating at the same time, that these remains have stood the test of time for 2000 years. At this point we were done. It had been 3 hours and although there was a lot of Pompeii to see, we called time and left, but not before stopping into the 2-storey Casa del Criptoportico, which had some wonderful frescos on the wall and mosaics in almost perfect condition. Having left without looking at the map I was disappointed to later find out that at Fuggiaschi, we were so close to the Palestra Grande and Anfiteatro, which we definitely should have seen. Regardless, it had been a magnificent stop on this trip and something I’ll remember for a long time. I hope the boys get the significance. I assume they will, as it was them who wanted to come to Pompeii specifically.

Casa del Poeta Tragico, Pompeii, Italy

Orto dei Fuggiaschi, Pompeii, Italy

B, M, L & D, Casa del Larario di Achille, Pompeii, Italy

Before we got back to the car, we went into the grocery store behind the parking lot to buy lunch, which we took back to the apartment.

The day took it out of all of us, and I started to get a migraine. Fortunately, we now have parking at the apartment, so after a quick unload, we had lunch and went into siesta mode. I was just a relief to be out of the heat more than anything.

While resting, A decided that the evening we would drive down to Sorrento for dinner. At 5pm we made the, what turned out to be, the adventurous trip an hour south (though only 28 kilometers). The drive was a winding road through a couple of mountain tunnels, but the most amazing part was the devil may care attitude of the crazy moped riders. They just were constantly overtaking us, weaving in and out of traffic, crossing double yellow lines to oncoming traffic all the way to Sorrento. It was so distressing to watch people fly by us in the craziest of moves, that in the end it became a joke in the car. Better us than them. The last few kilometers down the mountain gave a panoramic ocean view, and while traffic was congested, the view became calming. We had a parking station placed in Google Maps, that turned out to be a valet service and that is where we parked. We walked over a bridge to see to the Valle dei Mulini, the flour mills that have been abandoned since the 1940’s. Now overgrown, the buildings seem creepy, stuck down in the valley away, but so close to this bustling city. We walk down towards the water, through the lively entertainment district – restaurants and stores as far as the eye can see. It’s lovely to see the ocean, though weird to me that is below some rather high cliffs, not easily accessible like most other coastal places I’ve been. Via Padre Reginaldo Giuliani was a street lined with outdoor dining restaurants, where we found Ristorante Sorrento and sat outside and had a marvelous dinner. Pizza and pasta, as always, and a great meal in a great spot. We wandered the streets of Sorrento, stopping at stores and the obligatory gelato. Close to 10pm we got back in the car and made the calmer ride back to Torre Annunziata.

L, M & B, Sorrento, Italy

A huge day today, with one more before we head home. It’s always disappointing when a trip comes to an end, but this has been such a blast.

Torre Annunziata, Italy

I was sad to pack up the car today. It has been such a thrill staying at Podere Loliondo and exploring Orvieto and the surrounding area. However, the boys have requested seeing Pompeii so today we are heading off to Torre Annunziata, where we have an Airbnb for the next 2 nights.

Our drive takes us down the A1 all the way to Naples. It’s about 330 kilometers and we stop for once for gas and lunch just off the freeway. The freeways have been quite easy to drive, but it’s hard to get used to the tolls, as the A1 requires a ticket and then you pay when you get off. The Naples freeway requires payment at the beginning. It sounds easy, but I can’t read the Italian signs, so we just wing it.

When we get off the freeway, driving changes immediately. Shit just got crazy! The streets are really narrow and rules are non-existent, and people are in a hurry. Throw in even crazier Vespa riders, and I can’t believe we are going to survive the next 2 days.

I booked a place in Torre Annunziata as it was on the coast. I thought we’d be able to get a swim in maybe, and temperatures would be a little cooler. Wrong on both fronts. On the water yes, but a port town, so the beach is not very nice at all. And it’s hotter and more humid here than in Orvieto. Fortunately, we have a really nice place to stay. In the middle of town, this apartment has been recently renovated and, while minimalist, is very comfortable. There are 2 places for rent, and we have missed out on parking today so I drive off and look for a spot. Luckily, there is parking in Piazza Ernesto Cesaro, just around the corner. When I find a local, she kindly informs me I can stay there as long as I need, without charge.

It is late afternoon, but so hot, but we go for a quick look around town. We head to the water but it is not particularly nice, so we go looking for dinner instead. At 7pm most restaurants haven’t opened yet (as is the late-dining European way) so we end up settling for Masse Ristorante Pizzeria. We are seated outside, looking over the water, but there is no escaping the heat, and we just can’t get comfortable. That and we are the only people there, so every staff member is fawning over us to help. The meal wasn’t great, and in the end, we just headed back to the apartment to sleep of the night. We have a big day tomorrow, after a long drive today.

Rome, Italy

We were up early again to get down to the station for the 7.25 am train to Rome, This time with Pops and NanNan. A quiet ride in, again the express with only 2 stops and we were in Rome by 9 am. We started with a pastry breakfast at Rinaldi inside Termini

Although it’s warm, it’s only a mile walk down to the Colosseum, so we wander down and take in the area, including the Arch of Constantine, before our 10.25 am ticketed entrance (another difference since 1998, where we just went in). The place is packed with people. And there is no hiding from the heat, even this early. We spent just on an hour here’ taking in the history and the views. The boys seemed impressed, but bummed that we couldn’t get into the underground area.

NanNan, L, Pops, B & D, Colosseum, Rome, Italy

Colosseum, Rome, Italy

D, L, M & B, Colosseum, Rome, Italy

Once out we needed refreshing, so headed over to the west side of the Colosseum and ended up at Coming Out Bar (Italy’s original gay bar) for drink. It could not have come at a better time as we were all struggling with the heat.

After our break, Pops & NanNan left us to take a taxi up to the Spanish Steps while we headed over to the Forum, to use the other part of our Colosseum ticket. Somehow, we got lost finding the entrance, but came across Santa Francesca Romana, a beautiful church, where a wedding was taking place. Once we actually made it inside, we saw a few things before temperatures got too much and our hour-ish at most at the Forum came to an end. But not before seeing a few sights like The Arch of Titus, inside the Temple of Romulus, Temple of Antonius & Faustina, the Arch of Septimus, and the Temple of Vesta.

B, M & L, The Forum, Rome, Italy

Temple of Romulus, The Forum, Rome, Italy

Temple of Antonius and Faustina and San Lorenzo, The Forum, Rome, Italy

Not far outside the exit we found the Lonely Planet recommended La Carrette for lunch. Oh my God! This was easily the best pizza I’ve eaten this trip – and not because I was starving. Everyone’s food was so fresh and good.

The boys had had enough sightseeing in this oppressive heat, so we decided to wander back to Termini through some of the quieter streets of Rome. This way mom could go into some stores and all of us could get a gelato fix from Glauco Gelato.

We just missed the 2.30 pm train, so went and got some water and waited for the 3.30 pm train back to Orvieto (as we had last Saturday). Without contact we also ran into Pops and NanNan, who had also finished their excursion for the day. Not much to tell on the train as most of us got some form of a nap in.

The pool was a must, being our last day here. Boy did we need it. We also sat up at the outdoor dining table again to watch out last Orvieto sunset. What a great spot this has been. Not sure what I was expecting to get out of Italy this visit, but so far it has well exceeded my expectations. Tomorrow, we leave Pops & NanNan behind as we spend our last couple of days down in the Pompeii area. Something new for all 4 of us.

Orvieto, Italy

For us it was relatively early that we drove in to Orvieto for a quick last look around town. We parked at top of funicular and did our walk up Corso Cavour to Torre del Moro. We did a bit of shopping along the way and I picked up some shoes and a belt from Sargentini.

Torre del Moro was only steps away and we bought tickets to climb the 13th century clock tower. All 250 steps and 47 meters of it. I was exhausted when I got to the top. But the 360 view of the city and the surrounding town was the best. A beautiful view of the Duomo, unfortunately with a crane in the way. The Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, near where we ate Sunday night – and where we’ll go and have a look when we get down. And, of course, the Umbrian countryside outside the city. I hate heights, but it is so amazing to get this view anywhere, it’s worth the heart murmurs.

Duomo from Torre del Morro, Orvieto, Italy

Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo from Torre del Morro, Orvieto, Italy

M, B, D & L, Torre del Morro, Orvieto, Italy

We wandered around the bookstore under the tower, just to cool off after climbing all those stairs. I tried to convince B into buying a Harry Potter book in Italian, but he said he’s never read it and books need to be read.

Just down the way we ventured to Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, but after doing a lap, we couldn’t even find an entrance, let alone go in.

Mom decided she wanted to do some shopping so I took the boys up to the Duomo to tour inside. They hadn’t been in yet, and I was more than happy to go in again. The beauty inside is almost overwhelming, and we were in there while an organist was playing, so we sat inside as he played and explained the pieces he had chosen (in Italian and English).

L & B, Duomo, Orvieto, Italy

For lunch we walked back down Corso Cavour and stopped at Caffe del Corso. Big mistake. It was shit! B’s lasagna was microwaved from frozen and generally the meal was no good. Shame to leave Orvieto as that as our last meal after nothing but good food beforehand.

We stayed back at the house tonight, as that is where the pool and all the leftovers are. As well as too much gelato that we’ve been buying from the store (because having it while were out wasn’t enough). This also allowed us for an early night as we are headed back to Rome early tomorrow.

Orvieto, Italy

Initially the plan was to catch the train to Florence today. But because it’s going to reach above 100ºF, the Uffizi is closed on Mondays, and the Accademia (where the David is) is sold out, we have opted for a rest day by the pool.

Unfortunately, we lose power early on in the day. Not to worry as the house keeps naturally cool and it is more of an excuse to be out by the pool.

B & L, Podere Loliondo, Orvieto, Italy

We leave the house (just to get out) just after lunch. It turns out that in Ciconia, at the bottom of the hill, there is another La Pasqualetti to fulfil our daily gelato need. We also made a stop at the grocery store as well.

Later in the evening the 6 of us drove to Orvieto and, this time, parked on the west side of the city, where a series of escalators got us up to town and relatively close to dinner. Tonight, we are at Charlie, another favorite of our hosts, for dinner. Away from the center of town, Charlie seems to cater mostly to locals, and is said to have the best pizza in town. Another nice, leisurely meal, sitting outside doing everything to make Orvieto a favorite place.

As we tried to get back to the car, we found the escalators had been turned off for the night, and the passageway closed. We ran into Pops and NanNan who offered to drive us back to the parking lot, as they had parked nearby the restaurant. Drama ensued. Unlit and unmarked streets led us to a narrow street that, until half way down, did we realize we wouldn’t be able to get through. After a lot of careful maneuvering, a local pointed us in the right direction and we made it to our parking lot. Only to then find out I had no idea where the pay station was. Eventually, I found it at the top of the elevators, and we made it home.

Todi, Italy

We got a late start today. Pops and NanNan are headed out for the first time since NanNan got ill last week. They were on the road headed to Todi before we were ready, so we followed a little later.

Todi is another Italian town on top of a butte, about 40 kilometers from Orvieto. It is the same picturesque drive as the one to Assisi, but only half way there. We tried to park near Tempio di Santa Maria della Consolazione, but had to turn around to a parking deck nearby. Turns out this parking deck is right next to a small funicular. Taking us up into town. We walked along Via Augusto Ciuffelli, this led us to the main square, Piazza del Popolo. Here we ran into Pops and NanNan, who are taking a break in the shade at a bar. We went our separate ways soon after, as we went on an unmapped search for lunch. Around the corner, on Via Roma, and down the hill a little was Pizzeria Italo, where we sat outside and enjoyed (surprise, surprise) pizza, salad and roasted chicken and potatoes.

A, B & L, Piazza del Popolo, Todi, Italy

After the much need respite, we walked back up to the piazza and crossed the square to La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, the 12th century church overlooking Piazza del Popolo. Amazingly we had the place to ourselves. There was no one inside as we marveled at Fenzoni’s Last Judgement Fresco, with its delicate stained-glass window at the top. Also inside, was a wonderful organ and then a statue, Cristo Deposto Dalla Croce, an uncredited portrayal of Christ after crucifixion. Very rarely do you see Christ depicted this way, especially on his own. Again, I couldn’t get over the fact we were the only ones in here. Pretty special.

La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, Todi, Italy

Cristo, Deposto Dalla Croce, La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, Todi, Italy

Gelato time! Next to our lunch spot was Bar Pianegiani, who hooked us up with some delicious gelato (is there any other type in Italy?)

L, B, & M, Bar Pianegiani, Todi, Italy

As we had no map, we just wandered the streets of Todi, allowing Amy to stop into stores to look around. Eventually we ended up at Chiesa di San Fortuna, down by the funicular. This church is supposed to be as spectacular as the other we visited, but we arrived moments after it closed, so we only got to see it from the outside.

Before we left, the boys went and bought themselves a hat each and we looked out over the countryside to the north, enjoying the view and the shade. I can’t believe all these great little towns we’ve discovered. I feel like it’s so much better than going from one big city to the next. Not to say Rome isn’t amazing.

B & L, Todi, Italy

When we get home, it’s straight in for a swim to cool down before we get ready to head back in to Orvieto for dinner. We parked both cars up in the town tonight, and then caught the bus up to the Duomo. It’s a short walk from there to Osteria da Mamma Angela, where we have a reservation for dinner. This restaurant was recommended to us by our hosts at the house as a favorite of theirs. Who’s know better? We are seated outside, looking out towards Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. I had an Umbrian special, umbrichelli with pistachio and speck, and it was wonderful. Easily the best meal I’ve had so far this trip.

Pops, NanNan, B, L, D & M, Osteria de Mamma Angela, Orvieto, Italy

We had to walk through Orvieto to get back to the cars, so obviously we had to have a night-cap gelato at La Pasqualetti before heading home.

Rome, Italy

We’re supposed to be on vacation. Not up this early. But to have a whole day in Rome and get Drew to the airport we were down in Orvieto to catch a 5.54am train. Such a smooth ride, with only 2 stops before getting into Termini. There we left Drew as he caught his train to the airport as we went exploring the city.

We walked over to the Metro, bought a day pass, and caught the train to Ottoviano.  From there it was a couple of blocks to a café, Clemintina, where we had a leisurely breakfast.

Again, it was only a few more blocks before we got to Vatican City and into St. Peter’s Square. Last time I was here, in 1998, the frontage was covered by scaffolding and you couldn’t see any of this magnificent church. Today was different. And while you couldn’t roam freely around the Square, as it was set up for a seated event later on this evening, I finally got to see the Vatican as a whole. The other difference was we could just walk in, now you have to go through security screening, which for us meant a ½ hour wait in line. We walked in and I went straight for Michelangelo’s Pietra. It was a favorite back in 1998 and didn’t disappoint again. Though I don’t remember it being behind plexiglass. We were here before it was crowded and it was just great to marvel at the masterpiece. We walked down the middle of St. Peter’s straight towards the dome. Michelangelo’s dome is just wonderful, and more than complemented by Bernini’s baldachin. The baldachin marks St Peter’s tomb. We also saw some of the church members walking to the Left Transept, where they hold a daily mass. We were probably in the church for 90 minutes and by the time we left it was getting fuller. B & A stopped to watch a baptism in the small chapel near the entrance. L and I went back over to get one last look at the Pietra. We had to fight our way past people to get a good look this time. I hope this experience is one that sticks with the boys, and the significance of where we have just been. I worry that 11-year-olds they may not get it, but time will tell.

St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City

B, M, L & D, St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City

We left St Peters and walked down Via della Conciliazione, crossing the Tiber River at Castel Sant Angelo and walking along the river for a bit before ducking into Piazza Navona. Before we left, I made the boys choose sites in Rome & Florence and do some research about them. L had chosen the Vatican and B this Piazza, so he was super engaged as we took in the Fontana del Nettuna and Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi. There are a ton of places to eat on the plaza, so I was hoping we could come back here for lunch.

L, B & D, Piazza Navona, Rome, Italy

Piazza Navona, Rome, Italy

A 5-minute walk east and we were at the Pantheon. We booked tickets a couple of days ago, and thankfully so, as you can’t get in today without them, and they are sold out. The ticket also includes a 45 minutes audio tour, one for each of us, so we set our own pace through this 2000-year-old temple. The oculus is so unique, and it’s amazing to be at the tomb of Raphael. I think the boys tolerated this, but at least it someone else giving them all the information (and correctly).

Pantheon, Rome, Italy

L & B, Pantheon, Rome, Italy

We went back towards Piazza Navona to find a restaurant A had seen in the Lonely Planet, but it was a bit too fancy for the boys, but on the next corner we found Trattoria Il Lucano, where a young guy used all his English to sway us to stop there. So, we did. And gladly so. Lunch was great. Pizzas and pasta all round. The boys are eating like monsters on this trip. It does not bode well for their teenage years, but they are getting into it, and doing a fantastic job of speaking the little Italian they do know – much to the joy of the locals.

After lunch we are heading up to the Trevi Fountain. But first there is something important to do. Gelato. Francesco had told us about Giorgio Gelato, a Roman institute so we headed up to the store on our way. Gelatos, pastries and tourists galore. But worth it. I had a pineapple and a mango gelato and it was great. Everyone enjoyed theirs.

The Trevi Fountain was another 10 minutes further on. I remember really liking this place last time, and while the wow factor is still there, this time it is over run with people. Holy shit! Noise and people and activity everywhere, really makes it hard to enjoy everything. We threw our coins in, as per tradition, in order to ensure our return to Rome, and decided we’d make this the last stop for the day.

B, D & L, Trevi Fountain, Rome, Italy

The heat is just as overbearing as all the other tourists (them…not us). The closest Metro is Spagna, up near the Spanish Steps, so we walk up there taking a glancing look and one photo of the Spanish Steps before getting into the cool of the Metro station.

We caught the train back to Termini and had to wait about 30 minutes for the 3.30pm train back to Orvieto. Enough time for a drink and bathroom break. The trip back to Orvieto was uneventful as we splayed out, utterly exhausted from our 9 miles wandering around town. We did stop at Superconti (grocery store) on the way back home, mostly to make sure we had enough gelato in the house.

After cooling off in the pool, dinner were some leftovers from last night’s pasta. None of us were up too late tonight. Today had been a big one.