Abaye de St Benoit du Lac & Yamaska National Park

7/18

Biosphere

Ferry to Old Port

Smokies Food Truck

Archeology Museum

7/19
Ta Pies

St Josephs

walked to to Snowdon Metro

Train to Bonaventure

Walk St Catherines

7/20

Drive to 

Abbaye de Saint-Benoît-du-Lac

Lunch in Picnic Grounds

Yamaska National Park

Montreal, QC

7/10

Rain all day

Rumicube

Bishop & Bagg for England v Netherlands

7/11

Rain

Bernie Beignet

7/12

Bus to downton

Notre Dame

Walked St Catherine St

Lunch at Time Out Market

Marie-Reine Cathedral

Orvieto, Italy

For us it was relatively early that we drove in to Orvieto for a quick last look around town. We parked at top of funicular and did our walk up Corso Cavour to Torre del Moro. We did a bit of shopping along the way and I picked up some shoes and a belt from Sargentini.

Torre del Moro was only steps away and we bought tickets to climb the 13th century clock tower. All 250 steps and 47 meters of it. I was exhausted when I got to the top. But the 360 view of the city and the surrounding town was the best. A beautiful view of the Duomo, unfortunately with a crane in the way. The Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, near where we ate Sunday night – and where we’ll go and have a look when we get down. And, of course, the Umbrian countryside outside the city. I hate heights, but it is so amazing to get this view anywhere, it’s worth the heart murmurs.

Duomo from Torre del Morro, Orvieto, Italy

Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo from Torre del Morro, Orvieto, Italy

M, B, D & L, Torre del Morro, Orvieto, Italy

We wandered around the bookstore under the tower, just to cool off after climbing all those stairs. I tried to convince B into buying a Harry Potter book in Italian, but he said he’s never read it and books need to be read.

Just down the way we ventured to Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, but after doing a lap, we couldn’t even find an entrance, let alone go in.

Mom decided she wanted to do some shopping so I took the boys up to the Duomo to tour inside. They hadn’t been in yet, and I was more than happy to go in again. The beauty inside is almost overwhelming, and we were in there while an organist was playing, so we sat inside as he played and explained the pieces he had chosen (in Italian and English).

L & B, Duomo, Orvieto, Italy

For lunch we walked back down Corso Cavour and stopped at Caffe del Corso. Big mistake. It was shit! B’s lasagna was microwaved from frozen and generally the meal was no good. Shame to leave Orvieto as that as our last meal after nothing but good food beforehand.

We stayed back at the house tonight, as that is where the pool and all the leftovers are. As well as too much gelato that we’ve been buying from the store (because having it while were out wasn’t enough). This also allowed us for an early night as we are headed back to Rome early tomorrow.

Todi, Italy

We got a late start today. Pops and NanNan are headed out for the first time since NanNan got ill last week. They were on the road headed to Todi before we were ready, so we followed a little later.

Todi is another Italian town on top of a butte, about 40 kilometers from Orvieto. It is the same picturesque drive as the one to Assisi, but only half way there. We tried to park near Tempio di Santa Maria della Consolazione, but had to turn around to a parking deck nearby. Turns out this parking deck is right next to a small funicular. Taking us up into town. We walked along Via Augusto Ciuffelli, this led us to the main square, Piazza del Popolo. Here we ran into Pops and NanNan, who are taking a break in the shade at a bar. We went our separate ways soon after, as we went on an unmapped search for lunch. Around the corner, on Via Roma, and down the hill a little was Pizzeria Italo, where we sat outside and enjoyed (surprise, surprise) pizza, salad and roasted chicken and potatoes.

A, B & L, Piazza del Popolo, Todi, Italy

After the much need respite, we walked back up to the piazza and crossed the square to La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, the 12th century church overlooking Piazza del Popolo. Amazingly we had the place to ourselves. There was no one inside as we marveled at Fenzoni’s Last Judgement Fresco, with its delicate stained-glass window at the top. Also inside, was a wonderful organ and then a statue, Cristo Deposto Dalla Croce, an uncredited portrayal of Christ after crucifixion. Very rarely do you see Christ depicted this way, especially on his own. Again, I couldn’t get over the fact we were the only ones in here. Pretty special.

La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, Todi, Italy

Cristo, Deposto Dalla Croce, La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, Todi, Italy

Gelato time! Next to our lunch spot was Bar Pianegiani, who hooked us up with some delicious gelato (is there any other type in Italy?)

L, B, & M, Bar Pianegiani, Todi, Italy

As we had no map, we just wandered the streets of Todi, allowing Amy to stop into stores to look around. Eventually we ended up at Chiesa di San Fortuna, down by the funicular. This church is supposed to be as spectacular as the other we visited, but we arrived moments after it closed, so we only got to see it from the outside.

Before we left, the boys went and bought themselves a hat each and we looked out over the countryside to the north, enjoying the view and the shade. I can’t believe all these great little towns we’ve discovered. I feel like it’s so much better than going from one big city to the next. Not to say Rome isn’t amazing.

B & L, Todi, Italy

When we get home, it’s straight in for a swim to cool down before we get ready to head back in to Orvieto for dinner. We parked both cars up in the town tonight, and then caught the bus up to the Duomo. It’s a short walk from there to Osteria da Mamma Angela, where we have a reservation for dinner. This restaurant was recommended to us by our hosts at the house as a favorite of theirs. Who’s know better? We are seated outside, looking out towards Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. I had an Umbrian special, umbrichelli with pistachio and speck, and it was wonderful. Easily the best meal I’ve had so far this trip.

Pops, NanNan, B, L, D & M, Osteria de Mamma Angela, Orvieto, Italy

We had to walk through Orvieto to get back to the cars, so obviously we had to have a night-cap gelato at La Pasqualetti before heading home.

Rome, Italy

We’re supposed to be on vacation. Not up this early. But to have a whole day in Rome and get Drew to the airport we were down in Orvieto to catch a 5.54am train. Such a smooth ride, with only 2 stops before getting into Termini. There we left Drew as he caught his train to the airport as we went exploring the city.

We walked over to the Metro, bought a day pass, and caught the train to Ottoviano.  From there it was a couple of blocks to a café, Clemintina, where we had a leisurely breakfast.

Again, it was only a few more blocks before we got to Vatican City and into St. Peter’s Square. Last time I was here, in 1998, the frontage was covered by scaffolding and you couldn’t see any of this magnificent church. Today was different. And while you couldn’t roam freely around the Square, as it was set up for a seated event later on this evening, I finally got to see the Vatican as a whole. The other difference was we could just walk in, now you have to go through security screening, which for us meant a ½ hour wait in line. We walked in and I went straight for Michelangelo’s Pietra. It was a favorite back in 1998 and didn’t disappoint again. Though I don’t remember it being behind plexiglass. We were here before it was crowded and it was just great to marvel at the masterpiece. We walked down the middle of St. Peter’s straight towards the dome. Michelangelo’s dome is just wonderful, and more than complemented by Bernini’s baldachin. The baldachin marks St Peter’s tomb. We also saw some of the church members walking to the Left Transept, where they hold a daily mass. We were probably in the church for 90 minutes and by the time we left it was getting fuller. B & A stopped to watch a baptism in the small chapel near the entrance. L and I went back over to get one last look at the Pietra. We had to fight our way past people to get a good look this time. I hope this experience is one that sticks with the boys, and the significance of where we have just been. I worry that 11-year-olds they may not get it, but time will tell.

St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City

B, M, L & D, St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City

We left St Peters and walked down Via della Conciliazione, crossing the Tiber River at Castel Sant Angelo and walking along the river for a bit before ducking into Piazza Navona. Before we left, I made the boys choose sites in Rome & Florence and do some research about them. L had chosen the Vatican and B this Piazza, so he was super engaged as we took in the Fontana del Nettuna and Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi. There are a ton of places to eat on the plaza, so I was hoping we could come back here for lunch.

L, B & D, Piazza Navona, Rome, Italy

Piazza Navona, Rome, Italy

A 5-minute walk east and we were at the Pantheon. We booked tickets a couple of days ago, and thankfully so, as you can’t get in today without them, and they are sold out. The ticket also includes a 45 minutes audio tour, one for each of us, so we set our own pace through this 2000-year-old temple. The oculus is so unique, and it’s amazing to be at the tomb of Raphael. I think the boys tolerated this, but at least it someone else giving them all the information (and correctly).

Pantheon, Rome, Italy

L & B, Pantheon, Rome, Italy

We went back towards Piazza Navona to find a restaurant A had seen in the Lonely Planet, but it was a bit too fancy for the boys, but on the next corner we found Trattoria Il Lucano, where a young guy used all his English to sway us to stop there. So, we did. And gladly so. Lunch was great. Pizzas and pasta all round. The boys are eating like monsters on this trip. It does not bode well for their teenage years, but they are getting into it, and doing a fantastic job of speaking the little Italian they do know – much to the joy of the locals.

After lunch we are heading up to the Trevi Fountain. But first there is something important to do. Gelato. Francesco had told us about Giorgio Gelato, a Roman institute so we headed up to the store on our way. Gelatos, pastries and tourists galore. But worth it. I had a pineapple and a mango gelato and it was great. Everyone enjoyed theirs.

The Trevi Fountain was another 10 minutes further on. I remember really liking this place last time, and while the wow factor is still there, this time it is over run with people. Holy shit! Noise and people and activity everywhere, really makes it hard to enjoy everything. We threw our coins in, as per tradition, in order to ensure our return to Rome, and decided we’d make this the last stop for the day.

B, D & L, Trevi Fountain, Rome, Italy

The heat is just as overbearing as all the other tourists (them…not us). The closest Metro is Spagna, up near the Spanish Steps, so we walk up there taking a glancing look and one photo of the Spanish Steps before getting into the cool of the Metro station.

We caught the train back to Termini and had to wait about 30 minutes for the 3.30pm train back to Orvieto. Enough time for a drink and bathroom break. The trip back to Orvieto was uneventful as we splayed out, utterly exhausted from our 9 miles wandering around town. We did stop at Superconti (grocery store) on the way back home, mostly to make sure we had enough gelato in the house.

After cooling off in the pool, dinner were some leftovers from last night’s pasta. None of us were up too late tonight. Today had been a big one.

Assisi, Italy

This morning the 5 of us drove 55 miles northeast to Assisi. Just outside Perugia (where I also wanted to stop, but it turns out its another larger city without the beauty were about to see). We followed the phone’s directions until we saw this beautiful town on a hill, surrounded by a beautiful green landscape.

We parked on the south side of town and wandered up to the middle. The main purpose of coming here is to see St. Francis Basilica, but first we went into the center of town and saw the Temple of Minerva. This 16th century church, behind its Corinthian columns has a petite interior, but some decorative frescoes inside.

It was lunch time so at the behest of the Lonely Planet we went to Osteria La Piazzetta dell’Erba. We sat outside at this Japanese influenced Italian restaurant, and the food was magnificent. I had the steamed shrimp bun with spicy mayo. The boys split a pinsa with rocket, cherry tomatoes and ham that was so fresh. I had a bite and it was magnificent. Amy had a tuna tataki that was the most beautiful looking food I’d ever seen. And had a taste to match. What a great find!

D, M & Drew, Osteria la Piazzetta dell'Erba, Assisi, Italy

Our plan from here is to walk down to St. Francis’ Basilica, but first, gelato. We stopped at a wonderful place near the restaurant and ate it while standing in Piazza del Commune, while mom and Drew looked in some stores.

D, B & L, Assisi, Italy

There was some more browsing as we walked north-west down the hill until we got to Basilica di San Francisco d’Assisi. When you come towards the church you are walking down narrow streets, and all of a sudden the view opens up to the church, at the edge of town, with greenery as far as the eye can see behind it. It is breathtaking. This church was built after St. Francis’ canonization in 1228 and today is World Heritage Listed. And just when you think the outside is spectacular, we walked into the lower church (after Amy was given a shoulder covering) into this most spectacular basilica. Many small chapels are surrounded by endless frescoes, while you wander around in near silence trying to take everything in. You can exit just beside the altar and those steps take you outside above the courtyard of the friary. You can walk across there to get into the upper church. A bluer (literally) feel in this large chapel, I spent a fair bit of time looking at the ornate woodwork of the choir area. The boys were done and Amy took them outside, while I continued through and not realizing I could get out at the upper basilica, I went back down. And I’m glad I did, as I was able to go into the crypt, where Francis remains were entombed. It’s a little creepy, but what is here is why this whole magnificent church was built. St Francis is a native of this town and died here at the age of 44. His love of animals was well known, but his main achievement was seen as founding the Franciscan Order in 1209. A great history lesson today. I hope the boys come to realize the importance of seeing this beautiful county and its significant history.

A, B, D & L, Basilica di San Francisco d’Assisi, Assisi, Italy

We drove pass the town of Todi, about half way back home. We’ll have to look at this place and see if it’s worth a visit. Mind you I think the answer is yes, just from driving by it on the road.

Back at home we had a swim in the pool. Dinner tonight was lasagna, made by Francesco’s girlfriend especially for the boys. And we all went and watched another sunset tonight. How great is this place!

L&B, Orvieto, Italy

Sunset, Orvieto, Italy

Orvieto, Italy

The boys got a much-deserved sleep in today. But today we begin our adventures in Italy with a day out in our host city, Orvieto. The 7 of us packed into 2 cars and headed down the hill to the other side of the freeway and parked in the train station lot. From here you take a funicular up to Orvieto, as the old city sits on the summit of a large butte. The boys loved the less than 2-minute ride that drops you off in the north-east part of town.

You can see the Duomo from pretty much anywhere in the city so we head to Corso Cavour and start to meander through the city. But first – Gelato! As is mom’s want, ice cream is a must on every day of a summer vacation, so we stopped almost immediately to begin our new addiction to gelato. That gets everyone happy. 

B,D,L&M, Orvieto, Italy

This city (dating back to Etruscan times 750 BC) just has one beautiful side street after another coming off the main street. We eventually get to Torre del Morro, turned left up Via del Duomo to walk up to the cathedral. Wow! What a beautiful sight! This church, completed in 1590, is massive. The front façade, covered in intricate sculptures and beautifully tiled columns, is a breathtaking site. And the door on its own could be an attraction. In contrast, the side of the cathedral is a plain, green and greyish striped wall – beautiful in its own way, but not the marvel of the front.

We sat and looked at the façade until it was time for lunch. We walked back down Via del Duomo until we got to Il Dialogo Ristorante, where we got a table outside and had lunch. Our first meal out…. and we all went for it. I had a sausage pizza which was delicious (and huge). Pasta, pizza and salad all round and a bottle of white.  A great first dining experience.

The heat was getting substantial, and after lunch Pops and NanNan took the boys home to spend some time by the pool, while Drew, A and I continued to wander around the city.

A went and did some window shopping while Drew and I headed back to look through the Duomo. If I thought the outside was spectacular, the inside was just as magnificent. From the incredibly picturesque alter, to the massive organ, the statues (including Adam & Eve) and the Luca Signorelli frescoes in the Chapel of Madonna di San Brizio were jaw-droppingly beautiful. Signorelli, especially, with his “The Damned in Hell” was both visually amazing, and surprising to see pictures of demons in a church. Another thing I liked was some of the windows were covered in alabaster, allowing a beautiful light in, though completely unseen from the outside. Obviously the stain glass was impressive as well, but I’d never seen anything like this in a church before.

Duomo, Orvieto, Italy

Duomo, Orvieto, Italy

Alabaster Window, Duomo, Orvieto, Italy

Luca Signorelli's "The Damned", Duomo, Orvieto, Italy

We wandered around the city, not looking for anything in particular, just enjoying being in a foreign land, seeing buildings and people for the first time, watching a new town operate.

Eventually we made our way back to Piazza Cahen, where we walked through Fortrezza Albornoz. This 14th century fortress gave wonderful sweeping views of Umbria in the general direction of where we were staying – and south.

A quick ride down on the funicular and we were on our way back home, via a stop at the Coop supermarket to get some supplies for the house. An Italian grocery store – another first for me.

Dinner tonight was leftovers from last night’s feast before heading into an evening swim with the boys, who I think had been in the pool since they got home mid-afternoon.

New York, NY

At checkout, A and the boys took Mum and I to Union Station and they went on to a couple of days with Chase & John in Annandale.  Mum and I caught the express train to New York's Penn Station.  The 3 hours in the train was relaxing and gave us fleeting views of Wilmington, Philly and Baltimore.  The Chelsea Hilton was only a 4 block walk from the station and we were able to check in and get our gear away before going exploring.

Mum said that it wasn't necessary to go into museums and exhibits, but she just wanted to see the city.  So what better place to tart that 14 blocks north, in Times Square.  This is America and New York at its most iconic and just amazing to see mum's reaction to the crowds, lights and general buzz of the area.  From there we walked over to Radio City Hall (wish something was on while we were here) and then to Rockefeller Center.

From there we made our way to St Patrick's Cathedral.  Wow!  What a beautiful structure.  Too big from the outside to get a good look, but inside is very impressive.  Mum and I found a pew and just sat for an hour, soaking up the breathtaking view.

Inside St. Patrick's Cathedral, New York

On our way back to the hotel we detoured through Grand Central Station to look around.  We spent an hour relaxing in the hotel, resting our weary feet, and deciding on dinner.  We opted for Rare Bar, a simple bar & grill with the unreal feature of only being 2 blocks away from the hotel.  A good meal to end the day.  In all we covered 7 1/4 miles (and that's with most of the day on the train).  More exploring tomorrow.

View from 23rd Floor of Chelsea Hilton.  One World Tower is the lighted building in the distance.

Bateau Bay, NSW

Today is the day we decided to have the boys Baptised.  Thanks to K, the boys are being baptised by the wonderful Reverend Tim Goldsmith at KIncumber Anglican Church.  His service was informative while informal, which is a good fit for our crowd.  The boys weren't wrapped in the service, but then again they are 3.  We asked K & J, as well as Robbie and Reggae to act as godparents, to which they were all delighted.  I have to thank A for this.  Because we live on the other side of the world, she graciously let Australian friends and family enjoy the boy's milestone today.

B & L

L&B with Reverend Tim, Kincumber Anglican Church

Godparents Robbie, Reggae, K & J

Afterwards we went back to K & J's house to celebrate. Was now an opportunity to catch up with friends and family who have not been seen in 5 years. A perfect afternoon, time in the pool and 2 incredible cakes made by Kelly's friend Heidi.

Selcuk, Turkey

St. John Basillica, Selcuk

Selcuk Citadel

What I remember (in 2024)

Stayed at Artemis Guest House (Jimmy's Place).

Saw St John's Basilica, Selcuk Citadel, and the Byzantine Aqueduct.

A went to the Selcuk Hamami and I have a straight edge shave at a local barber.

Dinner one night was at Artemis Pide Salonu (probably affiliated with the hostel).

Side, Turkey

A & I, Side

 

Side Amphitheater

Me @ Side Amphitheater

A & I @ Temple of Apollo & Athena, Side

What I remember (in 2024)

Side was a small seaside town.  We stayed at Pettino's Pension, as it was owned by an Australian woman and her Turkish husband.

As you walk into the town, from the bus station was when we first saw it, you walk down the Colonnaded Street, before coming to a fountain in the middle of the one lane road leading into the town.  We were told that under the fountain is thousands of years of archeology, and many years ago it was discovered.  At the time the government told workers to fill it in and forget about it, as this was the only road in and out of Side.  You could believe this, because right beyond the city's entrance is a beautiful old amphitheater.

We spent a day at Small Beach and an evening at the Temple of Apollo & Athena while we were in Side.

Konya, Turkey

What I remember (in 2024)

I really remember nothing from Konya, but what I have highlighted in my Lonely Planet is that we stayed in Mavi Kosk Oteli, right in the middle of the city.

Right near the hotel was the Mevlana Museum, home of the whirling dervishes, and the Selimiye Camii, which we probably would have gone to on the day of our arrival.  The next day, it seems we walked up to Alaettin Tepesi and went to Alaettin Camii, the Villa of Sultan Kilic Arslan, and the Karatay Museum.

I also have that one night we ate at Sifa Lokantasi.

Istanbul, Turkey

We started the day off on the roof again for breakfast before heading up the road and around the corner to the Aya Sofia.  The Christian Church was built in 537AD and was considered the greatest church in Christendom until Constantinople conquered the city in 1453.  He converted it to a mosque and in 1935 it was proclaimed a museum by Ataturk.  This place is huge.  The design of the dome may have been ahead of its time as it has been in continual repair since 1992.  Christian mosaics still exist, but are blended in with Islamic scriptures and Imperial Fugra (signatures).  A beautiful temple that would have been incredible in its day. 

Aya Sofia, Istanbul, Turkey

Me, Aya Sofia, Istanbul Turkey

Once you exit the Aya Sofia, you walk through a park to arrive at the Blue Mosque.  This is a 17th century mosque built where a palace used to stand.  As you enter the mosque you must remove your shoes and be properly attired (i.e., well covered).  Inside is, once again, amazing.  The Blue Mosque gets its name from the tile (Iznik), which line the walls.  But for mind, the massive iron chandelier that hangs from the ceiling and stops about 2 meters above the ground is breathtaking.  I also felt peaceful and serene inside the building.  Tourists were well behaved and there were a few locals praying towards Mecca.  Also the entire floor was covered with a beautiful, plush carpet.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

Just beside the mosque is a market whose rents pay for the upkeep of the main building.  Within this market is the Great Palace Mosaics Museum.  This museum contains fragments of mosaics found by archeologists in the 1950s.  The mosaics came from Byzantine Palace, which originally stood where the Blue Mosque is today.  It was believed that the mosaics date back as far as 500AD.

 

After having this museum to ourselves we went to the western side of the Blue Mosque to the Hippodrome.  This area was used by the Byzantines and Ottoman rulers for palatial and recreational purposes.  Today there are monuments that sit in the middle of the park.  One is of Kaiser Wilhelm’s Fountain – a gift from a German Emperor in 1901.  Then, moving south is the 3500 year old Egyptian Obelisk of Theodosius, named after the Byzantine Emperor who bought it to Constantinople in 390AD.  There is another column and obelisk which are unknown quantities.

 

From here we walked up to Divan Yolu and up to the Grand Bazaar.  This is a huge market – mainly undercover – and a maze of carpet shops, jewelers and Turkish knick-knacks.  We spent some time wandering through here and sheltering from the heat.  On our way back we picked up some pastries and goodies – some of which we ate at the nearby Palace of Antiochus Ruins.

We had an afternoon siesta and spent the evening on the roof taking photos of both the lit up Aya Sofia and Blue Mosque.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

Aya Sofia, Istanbul Turkey

Drogheda, Ireland

On the Saturday we started off by going to Monasterboice High Cross. This is a ruined abbey in the middle of nowhere. I’m unsure of the significance but what remained was picturesque and quiet moving. Newgrange was next. This is a burial site northwest of Drogheda. Unfortunately there we too many people in our group (apparently bookings are required) so only some of the group saw it, while the rest of us went to a nearby pub and had lunch. We went back to Drogheda and did our own things for the late afternoon. Dinner was had at the Westcourt Hotel, a rather swank place where the food was great. Afterwards it was off to another pub, again to continue the celebrations.

Ruins of Monasterboice, Ireland

Cross of Monasterboice, Ireland

San Francisco, CA

Another late start sees me wake up in time to walk down to Casi’s work and have lunch with her, Jill and Mike at a Vietnamese restaurant – Size. After lunch, Casi gave me a tour of her office. She has an awesome view of the city and the Bay.

I then walked down to California Street to catch my first cable car. I caught it all the way up to Grace Cathedral, which is a large gothic-style church. (It’s front doors are a replica of Florence’s Duomo Baptistery). A chat to the priest and some photos and I was off to the shopping district on the cable car – all of five minutes here I was back on the cable car headed towards Broadway.

Grace Cathedral, San Francisco

By the time I got back to the hostel I only had time to change and get back downstairs before Casi arrived to take me on our night out. We caught up with Naags and a huge bunch of their friends to go to the Blind Tiger, then Bings, then on and on for a great night out. It almost came to an end early when I got stopped for ID at a bar (me out of twenty of us), but not to be deterred, I went back to the hostel to get my passport and continue the raucous night until the early hours of the morning.