We got a late start today. Pops and NanNan are headed out for the first time since NanNan got ill last week. They were on the road headed to Todi before we were ready, so we followed a little later.
Todi is another Italian town on top of a butte, about 40 kilometers from Orvieto. It is the same picturesque drive as the one to Assisi, but only half way there. We tried to park near Tempio di Santa Maria della Consolazione, but had to turn around to a parking deck nearby. Turns out this parking deck is right next to a small funicular. Taking us up into town. We walked along Via Augusto Ciuffelli, this led us to the main square, Piazza del Popolo. Here we ran into Pops and NanNan, who are taking a break in the shade at a bar. We went our separate ways soon after, as we went on an unmapped search for lunch. Around the corner, on Via Roma, and down the hill a little was Pizzeria Italo, where we sat outside and enjoyed (surprise, surprise) pizza, salad and roasted chicken and potatoes.
A, B & L, Piazza del Popolo, Todi, Italy
After the much need respite, we walked back up to the piazza and crossed the square to La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, the 12th century church overlooking Piazza del Popolo. Amazingly we had the place to ourselves. There was no one inside as we marveled at Fenzoni’s Last Judgement Fresco, with its delicate stained-glass window at the top. Also inside, was a wonderful organ and then a statue, Cristo Deposto Dalla Croce, an uncredited portrayal of Christ after crucifixion. Very rarely do you see Christ depicted this way, especially on his own. Again, I couldn’t get over the fact we were the only ones in here. Pretty special.
La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, Todi, Italy
Cristo, Deposto Dalla Croce, La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, Todi, Italy
Gelato time! Next to our lunch spot was Bar Pianegiani, who hooked us up with some delicious gelato (is there any other type in Italy?)
L, B, & M, Bar Pianegiani, Todi, Italy
As we had no map, we just wandered the streets of Todi, allowing Amy to stop into stores to look around. Eventually we ended up at Chiesa di San Fortuna, down by the funicular. This church is supposed to be as spectacular as the other we visited, but we arrived moments after it closed, so we only got to see it from the outside.
Before we left, the boys went and bought themselves a hat each and we looked out over the countryside to the north, enjoying the view and the shade. I can’t believe all these great little towns we’ve discovered. I feel like it’s so much better than going from one big city to the next. Not to say Rome isn’t amazing.
B & L, Todi, Italy
When we get home, it’s straight in for a swim to cool down before we get ready to head back in to Orvieto for dinner. We parked both cars up in the town tonight, and then caught the bus up to the Duomo. It’s a short walk from there to Osteria da Mamma Angela, where we have a reservation for dinner. This restaurant was recommended to us by our hosts at the house as a favorite of theirs. Who’s know better? We are seated outside, looking out towards Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. I had an Umbrian special, umbrichelli with pistachio and speck, and it was wonderful. Easily the best meal I’ve had so far this trip.
Pops, NanNan, B, L, D & M, Osteria de Mamma Angela, Orvieto, Italy
We had to walk through Orvieto to get back to the cars, so obviously we had to have a night-cap gelato at La Pasqualetti before heading home.
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