We’re supposed to be on vacation. Not up this early. But to have a whole day in Rome and get Drew to the airport we were down in Orvieto to catch a 5.54am train. Such a smooth ride, with only 2 stops before getting into Termini. There we left Drew as he caught his train to the airport as we went exploring the city.
We walked over to the Metro, bought a day pass, and caught the train to Ottoviano. From there it was a couple of blocks to a café, Clemintina, where we had a leisurely breakfast.
Again, it was only a few more blocks before we got to Vatican City and into St. Peter’s Square. Last time I was here, in 1998, the frontage was covered by scaffolding and you couldn’t see any of this magnificent church. Today was different. And while you couldn’t roam freely around the Square, as it was set up for a seated event later on this evening, I finally got to see the Vatican as a whole. The other difference was we could just walk in, now you have to go through security screening, which for us meant a ½ hour wait in line. We walked in and I went straight for Michelangelo’s Pietra. It was a favorite back in 1998 and didn’t disappoint again. Though I don’t remember it being behind plexiglass. We were here before it was crowded and it was just great to marvel at the masterpiece. We walked down the middle of St. Peter’s straight towards the dome. Michelangelo’s dome is just wonderful, and more than complemented by Bernini’s baldachin. The baldachin marks St Peter’s tomb. We also saw some of the church members walking to the Left Transept, where they hold a daily mass. We were probably in the church for 90 minutes and by the time we left it was getting fuller. B & A stopped to watch a baptism in the small chapel near the entrance. L and I went back over to get one last look at the Pietra. We had to fight our way past people to get a good look this time. I hope this experience is one that sticks with the boys, and the significance of where we have just been. I worry that 11-year-olds they may not get it, but time will tell.
St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City
B, M, L & D, St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City
We left St Peters and walked down Via della Conciliazione, crossing the Tiber River at Castel Sant Angelo and walking along the river for a bit before ducking into Piazza Navona. Before we left, I made the boys choose sites in Rome & Florence and do some research about them. L had chosen the Vatican and B this Piazza, so he was super engaged as we took in the Fontana del Nettuna and Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi. There are a ton of places to eat on the plaza, so I was hoping we could come back here for lunch.
A 5-minute walk east and we were at the Pantheon. We booked tickets a couple of days ago, and thankfully so, as you can’t get in today without them, and they are sold out. The ticket also includes a 45 minutes audio tour, one for each of us, so we set our own pace through this 2000-year-old temple. The oculus is so unique, and it’s amazing to be at the tomb of Raphael. I think the boys tolerated this, but at least it someone else giving them all the information (and correctly).
We went back towards Piazza Navona to find a restaurant A had seen in the Lonely Planet, but it was a bit too fancy for the boys, but on the next corner we found Trattoria Il Lucano, where a young guy used all his English to sway us to stop there. So, we did. And gladly so. Lunch was great. Pizzas and pasta all round. The boys are eating like monsters on this trip. It does not bode well for their teenage years, but they are getting into it, and doing a fantastic job of speaking the little Italian they do know – much to the joy of the locals.
After lunch we are heading up to the Trevi Fountain. But first there is something important to do. Gelato. Francesco had told us about Giorgio Gelato, a Roman institute so we headed up to the store on our way. Gelatos, pastries and tourists galore. But worth it. I had a pineapple and a mango gelato and it was great. Everyone enjoyed theirs.
The Trevi Fountain was another 10 minutes further on. I remember really liking this place last time, and while the wow factor is still there, this time it is over run with people. Holy shit! Noise and people and activity everywhere, really makes it hard to enjoy everything. We threw our coins in, as per tradition, in order to ensure our return to Rome, and decided we’d make this the last stop for the day.
B, D & L, Trevi Fountain, Rome, Italy
The heat is just as overbearing as all the other tourists (them…not us). The closest Metro is Spagna, up near the Spanish Steps, so we walk up there taking a glancing look and one photo of the Spanish Steps before getting into the cool of the Metro station.
We caught the train back to Termini and had to wait about 30 minutes for the 3.30pm train back to Orvieto. Enough time for a drink and bathroom break. The trip back to Orvieto was uneventful as we splayed out, utterly exhausted from our 9 miles wandering around town. We did stop at Superconti (grocery store) on the way back home, mostly to make sure we had enough gelato in the house.
After cooling off in the pool, dinner were some leftovers from last night’s pasta. None of us were up too late tonight. Today had been a big one.
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