Band of Horses & Dinosaur Jr @ Hellbender

A is out of town for work , so the boys and I head up to Asheville for the night.  And they want to come and see Dinosaur Jr (again).  So we're off to the very first show at the Orange Peel's new venue, Hellbender.

A few hours drive up to Asheville, including a Chick Fil-A drive thru and we are at the hotel mid-afternoon.  Before we head to the show we finally make it to Asheville Pinball Museum.  we'd tried a couple of times before, but never when it was open.  We blew through 2 hours before we knew it.  They weren't as impressed with 1942, Galaga, Donkey Kong, Space Invaders and Moon Patrol as I was, but they had a great time nonetheless.

We drove out to the venue a little early, as I wasn't quite sure where it was, or what we might be in for.  For starters, I'm glad I forked out for parking.  We weren't a quarter of a mile from the entrance.  And those that hadn't planned ahead looked like they were struggling.  A storm caused some chaos as it delayed the gates opening in this outdoor venue.   The line came all the way back to the parking lot, then curved back to the entrance.  It took about 40 minutes to get in, but when we reached the point we started, the line was longer still.

We missed the first 2 Dinosaur Jr songs (Goin' Home & I I Ain't Sating), as we were outside, but we could still here them pretty well.  We were in place for them to start their shortened Where You Been set.  After a great Out There and Start Choppin, there was a commotion down the front, which Lou Barlow called for medics.  There was a delay for a medical team to take care of someone.  I'm not sure what happened but it seemed like the patron was stretchered out.  Dinosaur Jr continued on, but didn't play 3 songs off the album, finishing with Get Me.  They finished with 4 songs from different eras, including their new single, Several Got Away.  But Just Like Heaven and Feel The Pain was the blistering finish to a shortened set.  Another great show from a favorite band.

Dinosaur Jr Setlist

The boys enjoyed it, and I'm glad to report they knew a few songs.  I must be doing something right.  We lined up for some pizza right after the set, and weren't served until after Band of Horses started.  Food was good, and by the 2nd song we were back into the show.  None of us know Band of Horses stuff, and they were playing their album Everything All The Time.  We stuck around until mid set and I went to the now not-song-long-lined merch tent to by Where You Been on vinyl.  Would have loved the shirt too, but that may have been overkill.  I met up with the boys and watched a couple more songs.  They hit a slower song, so we decided to call it a night.  On the way out we stopped side stage to watch one more song.  This was the best spot of the night, I wish I'd found it earlier.  The Band Of Horses fans were having a blast, but it wasn't for us, so we left and beat the crowds getting out.

Band of Horses Setlist

A couple of things about the new venue.  Firstly we did the right thing by paying for parking.  We paid a mid price $20, but it was real convenient.  After the show I read of long waits to get the shuttle back to the remote parking lot.  Next, there was a lot of lines.  To get in - though through no fault of the venue.  The weather was the problem here, but it was disappointing not to see the whole Dinosaur Jr set, as that was who we were there for, but what can you do?  The beer sales were in a spot that would've been a prime viewing for the bands, it needed to be way back.  The lines there were out of control, and it was funny listening to Asheville people complaining that there was only Charlotte beer available.  We waited a long time to get food as well.  There were 5 or 6 food trucks in the venue.  In future there may need to be more.  I hope these inconveniences can be worked out over a couple of shows, as this seems like a great outdoor venue.  I might see how things change for Acid Bath and Melvins in September.

We tried to get up and go for a hike in DuPont State Recreational Forest.  After 3 full parking lots, a storm put and end to our plans.  Instead we drove into Brevard, had a quick walk around and then a great lunch at the Square Root.  All this and we still made it back to Charlotte in time to catch the England v France 3rd place World Cup game.  

The Crap Facts
This is my 547th concert.
Hellbender is the 145th venue I've seen a concert in.
This is my 20th concert in Asheville.
This is my 167th concert in North Carolina.
This is my 347th concert in the USA.
This is my 12th Dinosaur Jr concert.

Dinosaur Jr are the 650th time I've seen an American band.

This is my 2nd Band of Horses concert.

Band of Horses is the 300th time I've seen a band in North Carolina.

Vancouver, BC

 A had found a couple of cafes near the hotel, so this morning it was pastries to start the day at the cute, SUD Cafe.  From there is was a walk down to the water to catch the False Creek Ferry over to Granville Island.  We have to change boats, but we have one to ourselves as we head  all the way to Science World.  We've been on these boats before, what a great way to get from place to place on False Creek.  We loved the way Science World looked from the moment we saw it from the stadium (it's just across the creek).  Usually a silver dome, it had been redesigned to look like a World Cup ball.  And to continue it's theme, inside is a big exhibit of Soccer & Technology.  We send a couple hours inside, even though the museum as a whole is geared towards younger kids, B & (especially) L are having a blast.  Obviously the soccer exhibit is a hit with all of us.

MBD&L, Science World, Vancouver, BC

Science World, Vancouver, BC

DMB&L, BC Place, Vancouver, BC

DL&B, Science World, Vancouver, BC

New Zealand and Egypt are playing here later today, so when we leave we walk towards the stadium, and just soak in the vibes and throw our support behind the Kiwis.  We did consider going today, but tickets weren't reasonably priced (again!) especially for 2 teams that we have no affiliation with.  There is a ferry pick up next to the stadium, so we jump on and head for another afternoon at Granville Island.  We split in four different directions when we arrive, as we are all in search of our own lunches.  We come back, me with a Montreal bagel, and  eat in the glorious sunshine and notice how many more people are here this time.

After lunch we do some wandering and purchase a few souvenirs before go over to the watch party to catch a thrilling Uruguay and Cabo Verde game on the big screen.  We walked in at half time and scored some seats up front.  We watched most of the 2nd half before heading out so the boys could play a few games of table tennis.  we were still close enough that when we heard the crowd road, we were able to run back and see what who was doing the celebrating.  There were a bunch of neutrals cheering on the underdog, Cabo Verde.

B&L, Granville Island, Vancouver, BC

The end of a fun afternoon on Granville Island saw us jump on the ferry again to skip across to the Burrard Bridge.  From there we walked home, doing a lap of Denham Street looking for a place for dinner.  We've opted for Cactus Club Cafe.  It was recommended to us by the owners of our last Airbnb, and it sits literally on the beach.  We can't make a reservation but only have to wait 15 minutes before we can be seated.  Again, it's just nice to be able to sit outside and eat (unlike Charlotte where it is always hot and humid in the summer).  I had an ok steak,  everyone else got a better meal, and we finished dinner just as the sun was getting into a spot that was blinding us.  On the way back we got a gelato from D'Oro Gelato e Cafe, the ice cream tradtion we love every summer holiday.

Vancouver, BC

Reluctantly we left The Cabins this morning to continue our journey back to Vancouver.  We only have 3 days left, but I want to stay forever.  We grabbed a bite to eat for breakfast at The Barkley Cafe as we headed out of town.  We drove back to Nanaimo the only way you can, east on the 4.  Through the winding forest road, back to a short sting on the 19 south.  While driving we looked for a deli to pick up lunch before we jumped on the 1.30 ferry back to Vancouver.  The best option in Nanaimo came up as only 3 minutes away from where we were at the time, so we stopped at Nellie's.  This excellent Ukrainian deli made us massive sandwiches and filled us with out daily quota of friendly Canadians, all of whom were stoked we'd chosen this family place to eat.  Recommendations came highly.

Returned the rental car back to Budget, and got our lift back to the Hullo Ferry Terminal in plenty of time.  Nellie's on the boat proved to be a winner, as we cruised back for an hour and a half straight back into Vancouver Harbour.  

From here it's not $10 in an Uber to our new accommodations.  The Revival English Bay is a boutique hotel in the heart of the West End, only a few blocks from English Bay Beach.  Once we're unpacked A & I walk down to the water and along the sea wall, in the direction of Stanley Park.  The boys head off for a run, getting ready for cross country at school when we return to Charlotte.  It's great to be back in Vancouver (as much as I wanted to go to Victoria).  And being about with all the people, in this beautiful weather is just perfect.  Along the way we find a place to go to dinner tonight.  Once we're back at the hotel it's just a matter of cleaning up, grabbing the boys and walking back down the street to Hook.  A great seafood restaurant where we sat outside, with a view of the water, and had a great meal.  I went with the mussels & clams.  I love to eat fresh seafood when I'm this close to the ocean.

DML&B @ Hook, Vancouver BC

After dinner, we walked towards the seawall and headed into downtown.  We ended up in Granville Street again, which is still jumping with World Cup fans.  It is still packed.  Japan is playing Tunisia and the blue shirts are everywhere.  Even B has his retro Japan shirt on tonight.  We hopped from pub to pub and when it looks like Japan has the game wrapped up, we start to head away from the crowds back towards the hotel.  We did stop and watch the end of the game from outside Relish The Pub.  It had large  TV's in its outdoor area, and wasn't nearly as crowded as anywhere in Granville Street.  We also stopped for a picture in front of the Vancouver sign at Burrard & Nelson Streets.

DML&B, Vancouver BC

Ucluelet, BC

When we can get our hands on Aussie food unavailable near us in the US, we dive on it.  Hence it was sausage rolls for breakfast this morning (from the grocery store we went to last night).

Today we drove north to Tofino.  It's 40 minutes away, and supposedly the most picturesque place on the west coast.  But I think it is everywhere from Ucluelet to Tofino, inclusive.  We drove through town and went to Tonquin Beach.  I had read this was the most amazing place, so we started at the top.  Words I read didn't do this place justice as to how breathtaking it was.  We walked along the small beach, the tide stopping us from going south the Third Beach.  Directly west, beyond the crystal blue ocean, was the tree covered, uninhabited Wickaninnish Island.  At the north end of the beach we could see Felice Island and Clayoquat.  And there is no one here.  We barely saw 10 people in the hour we were out here.

B, Tonquin Beach, Tofino, BC

Tonquin Beach, Tofino, BC

We parked in town and started the afternoon at Shed, where we sat outside for lunch.  I would have preferred to be on the water, but it seems those places are either super swank or only open for dinner.  But Shed served it's purpose.  We were able to sit out in the glorious weather and a great bar-style meal was had by all.  Town is pretty small, and we covered most of it in an hour, walking off lunch.  Just ducking into shops and art galleries was the order of the afternoon.  There weren't many places in town where you could get near the water, but we'd already been dazzled out at Tonquin.  Tofino is a pearl surrounded by some of the most beautiful ocean and tree covered islands.  I'm so glad we made the trip out to the west coast.

Roy Henry Vickers Gallery, Tofino, BC

Ciinut by Joe David, Tofino, BC

Between Tofino and Uclulet is the Pacific Rim National Park, numerous beaches and a number of different hikes.  We cruised home making turns off the highway and taking a look at the few of these places.  

Our first stop was Chesterman Beach.  Not far out of town.  A smallish cove to what looked like a popu;lar beach.  While not in any order today, plenty of waves for surfers and a long shallow waterfront for wading families.  We walked the length of the beach and back.  

We drove south next to Long Beach and got out of the car at Combers Beach.  It was half a kilometer from the parking lot to be able to walk on the sand.  It was nice being on a beach again, but it was too cold to swim and the surf was rougher than I expected.  The water itself was cold as well, though none of that stopped local surfers.

L&B, Combers Beach, BC

Not 2 minutes away is the parking lot for the Rainforest Trail.  The trail goes either side of the Pacific Rim Highway, but we stay just on the western side.  I was thinking it would lead tot he water again, but it was a built up, looped walkway through the forest.  Beautiful once again, and just slightly cooler under this eternal canopy.

We swung through the grocery store again, and stayed on tradition by eating at home for dinner again.  Though Amy and I walked along Terrace Beach after dinner, it was another night in, such is the draw of the World Cup.

Ucluelet, BC

We've opted to leave Campbell River a day earlier as we were able to get an extra night in Ucluelet where we are staying.  Campbell River has been a wonderful new town, but we're all excited to get to the next adventure.

A yummy pastry breakfast was had at Freya Bakery in town, and we were soon on the road headed south, then west.  It's 2 highways to Ucluelet.  Had to make a stop on the way out of town and get a photo at the 50th parallel (Dad stuff).  The family reluctantly joined me, but they'll thank me one day (?).  

BD&L, 50th Parallel, Campbell River, BC

The 19 goes south for just over an hour before you head west on the 4.  Not long after heading west we made a stop at Cathedral Grove, situated in Macmillan State Park.  Parking was scarce, but after turning around and waiting a few minutes we got a spot on the south lot.  Cathedral Grove is not that different form Santa Cruz's Redwood Forest that we visited last year.  800 year old Douglas Fir Trees dominate the landscape.  We wandered through the small hike under a cool canopy and enjoyed this little park.  On the other side of the highway it was more of the same, but close to Cameron Lake.  The hike on the north side also was built on a raised walkway, so a lot more floor growth in the forest.  The well maintained walkway meandered through for only a mile, but it was so relative to the endless trees we've seen in and around this area since we got in BC.

ML&B, Cathedral Grove, MacMillan Provincial Park, BC

DBM&L, Cathedral Grove, MacMillan Provincial Park, BC

It was well and truly lunch time by the time we'd finished.  We were only 20 minutes away from the town of Port Alberni, so we did some research in the car, and came to the conclusion the Aussie owned Boomerangs Cafe was to be our spot.  The boys got their beloved pies as we watched some England v Croatia in the World Cup.

Our time in Port Alberni was only the lunch hour, and A drove us the rest of the hour and a half into Ucluelet.  The road it was slow going, as 1 lane each way wound and bent its way through the forests.  We did have a time where we got to see the beautiful Kennedy Lake on the north side of the road, but other than that it was trees all the way into the coast.  We drove straight into our place at The Cabins at Terrace Beach.  The waterfront cabins are beautiful and the view from our place is sublime.  Through the trees you look west over Terrace Beach and into the Pacific Ocean.  Inside and out this place was beautiful.  We were on the beach walking in no time, just to get out and stretch if anything.  WE got in the car and did a quick lap through this small town and picked up food at the local Co-Op to eat home made pizzas for dinner at home.  This place has the World Cup channel that everywhere else has lacked, so the boys were happy.  We spent the night in the cabin, and sitting on the patio as the sun set well after 9pm.  More exploring tomorrow.

View from our Cabin, Terrace Beach, Ucluelet, BC

DMB&L, Terrace Beach, Ucluelet, BC

Campbell River, BC

Another action packed day is planned for today.  So to get it started we head down near the harbor and grab breakfast at The Island Grind.  Just some pastries and a good cuppa tea for me, and cappuccino for A.

Right next to the mall that Island Grind is in, is the site of todays adventure.  We are doing a 5 hour whale watching tour with Aboriginal Journeys.  I've seen whales before.  In Australia you can watch them migrate up and down the coast and many have been spotted on the Central Coast.  But this is our first ever tour, with a specific aim to see some of these great creatures.  Gary, a born and bred local, is our experienced guide.  He's been doing this for over 40 years, and was recommended by our original Airbnb host.  He has this great boat that seats 11, but he only puts 8 on a tour, that is covered but has a back deck you get out on when we stop.  Gary is a character and before leaving I know we're in for a good day.  It may have been his stories, his respect for nature and the indigenous people or the way he handled the French couple on the tour, who bought 2 giant cameras with them, taking up a ton of space.  We also had a Scottish couple with us, who had been in Victoria visiting their son.  

The trip starts with us heading south and turning around the bottommost point of Quadra Island and then heading north/northwest.  Once in the open water, we hit some wind, making the trip bumpy.  This changed Gary's course.  He'd been elsewhere yesterday and seen some whales but had another spot in my today due to the conditions.  Once we reached Read Island we were better protected from the elements and the boat ride became smoother.  A side note, with all this wind, I'm glad we're on a boat today and not in the helicopter.  

Our first stop was near a small rocky outcrop where a herd of sea lions were sunning themselves.  After a quick photo opportunity off the back of the boat, we had our provided sandwich lunch on board.

We continued north.  It was not much later Gary got a call from another tour that they had spotted orcas not 10 minutes from where we were, in the direction we were already headed.  Between Read and Raza Islands we spotted a family of 3, known to the guides as a mother and 2 sons - the T101, T101A and T101B.  They happily swan, both rounding out and spouting, as 4 boats sat back the required 200 meters.   It was one of those "can't believe this is happening moments".  The orcas would dive and pop up in different areas every once in while, but it was a good half hour that we got to watch these magnificent creatures.

It was just east of Stuart Island that our next stop was.  Here there were some rapids, which bought fish up near the surface.  We watched as about 50 eagles dove down and fished for lunch.  These graceful birds had no problem swooping down into a feeding frenzy.   As we sat just outside the rapids, I tried to catch photos of the eagles, but didn't really get a good one.

We were as far away as we were going to get today, so Gary turned the boat and headed back to Campbell River.  He took us through some narrows, where the boat nearly bottomed out.  And then back along the east side of Quadra Island.  The ocean got a little choppy again, but we were going with the wind and the swell, so it wasn't as bad as the way out.  There was a point where A thought she spotted something, but it was so hard to with the white caps in the water.  Then the boat went up a wave and on its way back down, 2 humpbacks simultaneously breached about 100 meters in front of us.  While everyone reached for cameras, they did it again, only to disappear.  We caught them again, just rounding out, then their tails went up for a dive.  These dives can last for up to 15 minutes, but it only seemed like a couple of minutes when they surfaced again.  Again it was hard to get a good picture, as the boat was not steady in the chop, and the whales were coming up in all different spots.  Still it was bonus whales that we had not planned on seeing.

We were out for 6.5 hours, but it seemed like no time at all.  What a spectacular day.! We could not have picked a better tour guide to lead us and , in his words, the nature gods were with us today.

Instead of going back to the hotel, we made a stop in the souvenir store right at the harbor.  We snuck in just before it closed.  I bought a new cup and we picked our obligatory travel tea towel.  We drove south down the South Island Freeway and stopped for an early dinner at Big Rock Garage.  This diner-looking restaurant had a mix of American and Asian cuisine.  We were a bit apprehensive at first as, it was fairly empty when we walked in.  Mind you I don't quite think it was 6pm yet.  Anyway we all got a great meal.  I had the Thai Chicken Curry.  It was my favorite meal of the trip so far.

Desert was had at another stop.  Discovery Fishing Pier Ice Cream Shop was recommended by Gary.  It sits out on the water, and we almost froze in the howling wind getting out there.  A nice end to another great day for us.  While it fells sad to leave this town, I'm looking forward to new adventures tomorrow.

Campbell River, BC

A nice, easy morning, spent sitting in the coolish outside dining area of the hotel's restaurant, where we ate breakfast just enjoying a summer where we can be outside, and not hiding from the oppressive Charlotte heat.  Just a typical bacon, eggs & toast breakfast.  Nothing special, but enough to get us through most of today's adventure.

We have a helicopter tour booked with 49North Helicopters.  It is their West Coast Glacier Tour.  We drive out to the Campbell River Airport, where we are greeted by out pilot, Lionel.  Lionel is a Swiss search and rescue pilot during the winters at home, and comes to Vancouver Island in the summers to help fight fires.  Pretty much the person you want piloting you into the remoteness for the next couple of hours.  What a trip!  We cruise out above Vancouver Island, and head north-east.  Over Quadra and some of the smaller islands and through Bute Inlet.  You can see trees forever, but also where logging has happened, and where regeneration has taken place.  Pristine clear waters are beneath us, as rarely a boat is in this area.  

B Leaving Campbell River, BC

View From Helicopter Tour, BC

View From Helicopter Tour, BC

We then started the climb into the ranges, and it's not long before snow and ice dominate the landscape.  Not a building in sight, just nature as far as the eye can see.  We flew for about an hour before Lionel picked a spot to land on a glacier at an elevation of 6000 feet.  He did a couple of swooping circles looking at the landing sight before touching down.  Shittily enough, I froze, and couldn't get away from the helicopter.  I saw where we landed was a wide open space, but once on the ground, rolling snow drifts looked like major cliffs and I literally couldn't let go of the chopper.  Lionel, A & the boys wandered around for 20 minutes.  I was awed by what I could see.  Just from inside the helicopter.  It was 59 degrees up there (it was 73 back at sea level), so pleasant enough to be outside for the others.  When we took off again, we continued to climb to about 8000 feet.  Glaciers, frozen lakes formed between mountains, mile high waterfalls and white was everywhere.  We also saw a lake that had been dammed by beavers.  So much wood stopping water leaving the lake to form another waterfall.  Again it was an hour back, and the view was just spectacular.  So different to previous trips we'd done in helicopters out from Vegas tot the Grand Canyon.  The natural beauty, the steady water below and the isolation was just awe inspiring.  Once we got closer to civilization it was neat to see the golf course on Quadra Island, and how the sprawl of Campbell River extended along the coastline.  I hope the boys, at 15, understand the experience they just had, because I was still taking deep breaths thinking about it for the rest of the day.

Into the Pacific Ranges, BC

Lionel,M, L & B at 6000 feet, Pacific Ranges, BC

L, B & D, Helicopter Tour

Frozen Lake, Pacific Ranges, BC

Campbell River From The Air, BC

L, M, D & B, Campbell River Airport, BC

Lunch was had at Healthyway Natural Foods.  Amy shopped through their groceries, while the boys and I had delicious sandwiches and smoothies from their deli out the back.  The food was taken back to the hotel, and again we sat on the patio and looked east to where we had just been earlier in the morning.

We still had all afternoon, so we took a 15 minute drive out to Elk Falls Provincial Park.  There is another suspension bridge here, but maps took us to a parking lot by the John Hart substation, where we found a trail head that went up to the suspension bridge.  Early on we walked next to the Campbell River, but we then moved away for a while and started an uphill plough to Elk Falls.  It was a strenuous but enjoyable a walk trough the woods for about 2 miles.  When we finally made it to the bridge, it looked worse to me than Capilano.  The bridge looked like a long steel grate, and while a third of the length it just went to a small fenced area, not much bigger than out kitchen, that had s single small bench.  It looked like a prison.  Again, not for me.  The downhill walk back tot he car was a lot easier, and therefore more enjoyable for everyone else, as whining dad was at a minimum.

D, L, M & B, Elk Falls, BC

We went back to the hotel to clean up before heading back into town to eat dinner at Riptide Marine Pub.  Just regular pub fare here, and a great meal, but it also had access to World Cup (essential for B&L as everywhere we've stayed do not have the station that has coverage) and a view of the river, where A & I marveled a the massive cruise ships heading back into Vancouver after their journeys up to Alaska.  

After dinner we just drove south down the coastal highway to see some more of the town.  I specifically wanted to see the humpback whale sculpture, Drift, that lies by the water that is made entirely of driftwood.  It definitely did not disappoint.

Drift by Alex Witcombe, Campbell River, BC

Campbell River, BC

Big day yesterday, so no one was in a hurry to get out this morning.  And our ferry to Vancouver Island doesn't leave until 1pm, so we slid around the corner again and got some pastries from Breaka Cafe for our morning meal. 

We had to be out of the Airbnb by 11am, so we caught an Uber down to the harbor and sat by the water's edge and waited.  The boys and I wandered through some of the same area we had been in a couple of days ago, and they picked up some food for lunch.  

B&L on Digital Orca by Douglas Coupland, Vancouver Habour, BC

Goodbye Vancouver (for now)

The ferry was a bit late, but our reserved seats on the top deck, and a calm days weather, ensured a smooth, uneventful hour and a half sail across to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island.  

Once we disembarked, Budget picked us up and drove us the 5 minutes to their office, and we were on our way up to Campbell Riverin a Toyota Rav 4.  The 2 hour drive north is a pleasant one.  The freeway is only 2 lanes each way, but traffic is barely minimal.   You don't see towns on the way up, as the road is lined with forestry, but you know there are places there, as the freeway has traffic lights to get people on and off.

A month ago I had never even heard of Campbell River, but a chance ad on my Facebook feed, lead me to believe this would be a good, new (I'd been to Victoria before) spot to investigate.  

It was not long after 5 when we arrived at the small marina where our Airbnb is docked.  The boat itself sits at the end of the marina, and moves too much for us city folk when the large Quadra Island Ferry comes into port.  Not long after our host left, A started feeling unwell, and vertigo and claustrophobia started to kick in.  We got off the boat and walked for a minute, before getting into the car and heading to Moxie's for dinner.  The meal was good, but I was so hungry I'd have eaten anything.  At dinner we decided we would not be able to stay on the boat, and looked for alternative accommodations.  We found the Painted Lodge just north of town.  We drove up there to take a look at it, and they had a great loft style room for us.  The property is right on the river, very quiet, so we booked in for 3 nights (we were originally going to stay 4 - and we may still) but it's all good.  The boys and I went back to the boat and collected all of our luggage and contacted our host.  It's a real shame because it would have been an adventure, but like my heights problem, A's claustrophobia has to be take seriously.

A long days travel earnt a good night's rest.

Vancouver, BC

Around the corner from the Airbnb is The Breaka Cafe.  A 24 hour bakery serving all the treats you could want for breakfast.  We picked up some items for a to go breakfast, including a much desired sausage roll, on our way to our walk a mile down the road to the Hyatt.

Here, we caught the free shuttle up to Capilano Suspension Bridge Park.  I have been here before and successfully crossed the bridge in 2007, but my fear of heights wouldn't allow me to do it today.  Yet I watched the rest of the family cross with no problems whatsoever.  The park itself is beautiful.  The canyon is so green with trees and the Capilano River flows freely underneath.  On the other side of the bridge are elevated walkways through the forest.  I know this from the last trip here.  But today I got about 15 feet onto the bridge and turned back.  I really hate this fear of heights.  It's so irrational, and once I'm away from it, I can normalize everything that should and does happen.  But then there is a part of my brain that will physically stop me moving.  I literally cannot move forward any further.  While I wanted to push through, my immediate thought was what if I made it to the other side, but couldn't get back.  So I stayed while the other 3 spent their time on the other side.  The park has World Cup fever with soccer themed photo ops and flags of all the countries playing in Vancouver.  When they returned they did help me do the Cliffside Walk.  This was not here last time and harrowing 10 minute experience which I enjoyed only in hindsight.

DLB&M, Capilano Suspension Bridge Park, Vancouver, BC

A quick Uber down the hill got us to The Shipyards in North Vancouver.  A had read there was a World Cup watch party there, and with Canada playing in Toronto today, we thought it would be a good spot to watch the hosts play Bosnia and Herzegovina.  We were right!  Under the cover of a large roof, the giant outdoor screen area was packed with Canadians, and the atmosphere was electric.  You couldn't help but want them to win.  While Bosnia went ahead early, Canada did come back to draw the match at 1-1.  By the time the game was ending, it was well past lunch time, so we went and ate at Nook, right behind the big screen.  Pasta, pizza, a salad and a sandwich was well enjoyed by the family.

A 5 minute walk takes us to the ferry terminal, and we arrived only moments before the next one left, so we jumped aboard and enjoyed the 20 minute ride across the harbour.  The boys and I walked the couple of blocks to Harbour Tower, while A went for a quick walk on her own.  The boys rode the glass elevator to the observation deck, while I relaxed outside.  When the came back from their adventures, A was already back, and I was given my early Father's Day gift.  A had found an Aussie jersey in a sports store and bought it for me to wear tomorrow night.  Obviously I love it and can't wait to be one of the many tomorrow night to be cheering on the Soccerooos.

The Shipyards Crowd for Canada v Bosnia and Herzegovina, North Vancouver, BC

We went into Gastown, to see the clock.  I also picked up a Vancouver shirt for myself at a tourist shop.  Afterwards we headed back towards the Airbnb, via Granville Street again.  Now the Aussies are out in force.  They are everywhere!  This is going to be a big turnout tomorrow.  Every minute closer gets better and better.  We stop at the FIFA store (or was it basically a Ronaldo shirt store) and L picked himself up a bucket hat.

Me & A, Outside Vancouver Art Museum, Vancouver, BC

It was important for the family to watch the USA tonight (obviously), so went looking for somewhere to watch it.  Unable to stay at the The Fountainhead because the boys are too young, we stopped and sat outside at Cazba, an awesome Persian restaurant that had a tv out on its patio.  The food here was amazing.  we shared a hummus to start that was to die for, and I ate the best steak sandwich I'd had for a long time.  The boys both had chicken dishes and stews, which were just as good, and A's salad with shrimp was a hit.  We sat here, on a beautiful night and watched the US cruise to a 4-1 win over Paraguay.  Day 2 was possibly bigger than day 1.

Vancouver, BC

The year's summer trip sees the family head out to British Columbia, with the driving force being the World Cup match between Australia and Turkey on Friday. Obviously there are many other things to do and see, so the net 12 days should be fun.

We arrived at our Airbnb late last night, but got up early for a long day's touristing.  We want to get as accustomed to the time change as soon as possible for the 9pm (12am our time) game on Saturday.  It started with a walk over to Granville Street to have breakfast at The Templeton, a classic old school diner.  The perfect start to a vacation.  

We walked south over the Granville Bridge to Granville Island.  Here we wandered the shops, stalls and food halls, and of course stumbled across a World Cup watch party.  The Island and the Brewery have an outdoor area where you can watch World Cup games on the big screen, in a family friendly atmosphere.  we got a spot to watch the first half of Mexico (very well represented in the crowd) and South Africa, as it was important for the boys to the see the kick off for the first game.  The atmosphere here was fun and while the Mexicans and Canadians dominated the crowd, there was barely a country not represented in the crowd.  Every other person had their country's gear on and were having a great time.

Granville Island World Cup Watch Party, Vancouver, BC

We all got something from a different place in the food hall and sat outside, by False Creek, to eat lunch.  I got a meat and potato pie.  It's so good to be back in a place that has some Aussie food.  I will make the most of that.  

From Granville Island we caught the Aquabus over to Hornby Street and then walked along the seawall all the way around to English Bay.  This vibrant part of town has people everywhere, with Canadians enjoying the "beach" (says the snobby Aussie), and Denham Road leading north to Vancouver Harbour filled with retail and restaurants.  We walked all the way to Yes Bike Rentals, where we picked up bikes to make the ride around Stanley Park.  A & I did this last time we were here (19 years ago - gulp!), but this time it was a little warmer (and of course I'm a lot older).  The boys enjoyed the ride as we stopped at a few places along the way of the 6.5 mile ride around the edge of the park.  An absolute must-do in Vancouver.

B&D, Inukshuk, Vancouver, BC

Vancouver, BC from Stanley Park

DML&B, Stanley Park, Vancouver, BC

We zig-zagged our way through the West End and Davie Village neighborhoods on the way back to the apartment.  It is so nice to see so many people out walking, riding bikes and just generally enjoying a city.  I am really pumped to be here and hope the others enjoying the rest of the trip as much as I have today.

Dinner was only a few blocks away at The Banana Leaf.   This Malaysian restaurant was recommended to A and we went in spite of not actually ever been to a Malaysian restaurant before.  The food was excellent.  I had a red curry chicken, and everyone was impressed with how good this place was.  After dinner we headed back to where the day started.  Granville Street.  The city has made the street a pedestrian only walkway during the World Cup, and it is party central here.  There are so many people around (for a Thursday night), and everyone has World Cup fever.  Bars and restaurants have extra outdoor seating for all to watch games, there's a FIFA store on the street (that closed at 7pm - WTF?), and the vibe is just upbeat.  Vancouver could prove to be a very wise choice as a World Cup host city.

Sunset here doesn't happen until after 10.15pm, so even though were back (exhausted) home at a decent hour, it still looks like the middle of the day.  After a 22,000 step, 9.6 mile walking day, on top of the 6.5 mile bike ride, that didn't stop any of us getting a great night's sleep.

Alabama Shakes & Joy Oladokun @ ExploreAsheville.com Arena

Merry Christmas to me.  A bought these tickets for me for Xmas, so we headed up to Asheville for a night to see a band we were both super excited to see.

We're staying at the Hotel Indigo, and were lucky enough to get an upgrade to the penthouse suite.  Nice!  I've never had that before.  It's a shame we're only staying 1 night.  I could get used to this.

We were out the door not long after getting in, ,in search of dinner.  We opted for Rhubarb, at the top of town.  Wow! What a feed!  We split a beautiful fresh salad, and I ended up with a great burger.  It was a little cool, so we opted to sit inside, and I'm glad we did, as a drummer set up right outside the patio as we sat down.

After dinner we had a chance to wander around, only to find a big town festival taking place.  People were out in full force, enjoying the weather, entertainment and local vendors.  It felt rude to leave, but, you know, it's a concert.

Harrahs is back towards the hotel and we were able to get into the venue and to out seats as opener, Joy Oladokun took the stage.  She has a magic voice and had the early crowd entranced.  And her band was tight.  Figuratively and literally.  Packed in colse together on stage, the band knew the mission, and Oladokun played a set which easily won over some new fans.  A and I included.

Our seats were stage left, level with the stage, not 30 feet from the stage, on an isle.  You couldn't have wanted any better.  Alabama Shakes came on stage just before 9pm, to thunderous applause, and then put on a show.  Specifically Brittany Howard.  Her powerhouse voice came to the fore early on.  And the crowd responded accordingly.  While I'm only familiar with a few songs from Sound and Color, Alabama Shakes were playing some great songs all through their set.  Sound & Color was awesome and Don't Wanna Fight was even better than I expected.  Though Howard spoke occasionally to the crowd, her best interaction came when a couple had a sign asking her to sing at their wedding.  Her compromise - dedicating Give Me All Your Love to finish the set.  Emotionally awesome.  The crowd went crazy.  The Greatest was the highlight of the encore.  For me, that was because they did not play Over My Head (my favorite).  They played almost everything else off the album, but in a stroke of genius, Alabama Shakes kept me wanting more, and hoping they come near by soon. 

Alabama Shakes Setlist

The Crap Facts
This is my 543rd concert.
This is my 2nd concert at the ExploreAsheville.com Arena.
This is my 19th concert in Asheville.
This is my 163rd concert in North Carolina.
This is my 343rd concert in the USA.

Joy Oladokun is the 633rd band I've seen

Alabama Shakes is the 634th band I've seen.

The Hives & The Chats @ Citizens House of Blues

I've come to Boston for a few reasons.  First, it's the catch up and a show with Erik.  Second that show is The Hives & The Chats, and 3rd, is because I've never been to Boston before.  We both got in yesterday.  I earlier and I wandered around near the hotel, the Public Garden, Boston Common, and the Cheers Bar.  Erik got in later and we went for a walk into the theatre strict and had dinner at the Fourth Wall.

The following morning we got up and walked around the corner to the Friendly Toast where we had a huge breakfast.  

It was then a $15 Uber ride to get to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum.  We had tickets for 10am (doors opening).  We then spent over 3 hours wandering through this palace of art.  I remember hearing of this place, and when Erik said it had been robbed in 1990, I realized I had seen the Netflix documentary, This Is a Robbery, a couple of years ago.  I'm excited to see this palace.  You walk in and immediately step into the courtyard in the center of the 4 story Venetian style palazzo /  former home of Gardner.  Built in the early 1900's by the the widow Isabella Gardner, the museum was personally curated by her, and kept open after her passing in 1924 with the proviso that the permanent exhibit remain as she designed it.  The museum is a series of rooms and corridors, each differently themed.  3 floors of priceless art (the 4th was Gardner's residence), one space just as fascinating as the others.  Weirdly, for me, what was most interesting was the still hanging bare frames from the 1990 robbery.  The first we came across was in the Blue Room on the first floor, a small Manet, was taken and the frame left tauntingly back in the head of security's office.  My favorite thing was all the statues leading down to John Singer Sargent's El Jaleo  in the Spanish corridor.  The 2nd floor contains the large Dutch Room.  It is here where 2 priceless Rembrandts and a Vemeer were taken, amongst other things.  These were larger paintings, and the empty frames on the wall really stand out.  The look sad, as they wait now 36 years for their paintings to return.  In the room workers were actively cleaning the ceiling paint.  About a quarter had been done, as staff carefully removed years of pollution carefully with Q-tips.  A degree of patience that only an art historian could have.  In the Short Gallery on this floor is where 3 Degas were taken.  These drawings were obviously targeted, considering how they had been displayed in folder like cases in the building.  Not necessarily obvious they were there.  The Tapestry Room here was magnificently lined by huge works covering every inch of the walls.  The 3rd floor also was amazing, though nothing from memory really stands out.  It was really interesting being in a museum with a sordid past that you knew some information about.  After 36 years, I think this priceless art is gone forever, but what a glorious day it would be if it was found.  I will watch that documentary again, if only to reconnect to this beautiful place.

It was mid afternoon before we left.  Again we were in an Uber and headed to Faneuil Hall.  A marketplace full of eateries.  We picked up a lighter meal, still recovering from the huge breakfast, before walking in North End.  Erica had told me Mike's Pastries was the place to go.  She was right.  The place was packed, and the food plentiful.  We took what we needed and went around the corner and ate it in front of Paul Revere House.  Afterwards we took the 15 minute self guided tour through the home of this American hero.  It was small. and they have done a great job of preserving it the best they can.  Once we were done here, we just wandered back to the hotel, to get ready for tonight's concert.

No dinner was needed, yet, so we caught an Uber, in the rain down, to the House of Blues at 7pm.  The front door is literally in the shadow of Fenway Park.  It's amazing.  It's really easy getting through doors and we walked into a packed venue.  I got 2 LPs last Saturday, so this week it was a Hives shirt to add to my collection.  We got our spot right behind the sound board, nearer the back, but with a great sightline.  The Chats came out and killed it again.  There set was similar to Asheville.  A different order, as well as the added Casualty and Nazi March near the beginning.  6LGTR had the crowd as pumped as expected and that energy ran through the whole set.  No Gym Shorts cover tonight.  Instead the had Paul Caporino of MOTO join them on stage for a cover of his Dance Dance Dance Dance Dance to the Radio.  Not a song I know, but a good one, and the audience loved it as well.  Smoko was the best song and again Pub Feed was an absolute ripper to finish their set.  I can't get enough of this band.  Let's hope they come nearby again soon

The Chats Setlist

To the fanfare that only The Hives can command, the band graced the House of Blues.  Their set was as dynamic as Asheville and was almost song for song the same.  My favorites came from Veni Vini Vicious, Main Offender and Hate To Say I Told You So.  But even with the familiarity the between song banter was different and the show had so much energy  The threw in a new song OCDOD and the encore had Bigger Hole To Fill instead of Smoke and Mirrors.  Again, I need to get familiar with the last 2 albums as that is where a majority of the set comes from.  But I have one of them now, so that shouldn't be a problem.  C'mon and Tick Tick Boom were excellent main set enders and it was definitely appropriate for them to finish the night with The Hives Forever, Forever The Hives.

Overall a great night!  New venue, new city!  I really dig Boston.  And hope to come back again for a more extended period of time.

The Hives Setlist

The Crap Facts
This is my 541st concert.
Citizens House of Blues is the 144th venue I've seen a concert in.
Boston is the 59th city I've seen a concert in.
Massachusetts is the 18th state I've seen a concert in.
This is my 341st concert in the USA.
This is my 5th Chats concert.
This is my 5th Hives concert.

Spamalot @ Belk Theater

I love this show.  We saw it 3 times back in Vegas.  So when the opportunity arose for us to see it as a family, there was never a doubt.  I picked a Saturday matinee, because there was no soccer to interrupt us.  Boy was I glad!

All week Charlotte has been threatened with an ice storm.  Now it is due to start at 6pm tonight.  We ran to to Eric's (from soccer) family, who had scrambled to get tickets, as they were originally booked for Saturday night's performance, that has already been cancelled.

We got Uptown (too) early and went and had lunch at Cowbell.  It was perfect warming food for the freeze that was happening outside.  We had some time to kill afterwards, but opted to wait in the foyer of the Belk Theater, just to escape the cold.  We also had the obligatory finding of Mrs. Y, B's 3rd grade teacher.

And the show.  Just as funny as I remembered.  The full version, not the 90 minute scaled down Vegas version.  Casting was great, and how can you not like Monty Python and the Holy Grail set to music.  Mom & B loved it as well.  L could take it or leave it.  I think he is a musical non-lover.  He's rather of been anywhere else (again).  

It's important to me to give the boys these experiences, something that is not the norm, and hopefully expand their interests.  We left in a great mood, only to drive home through the start of sleet.  Spamalot did the right thing by cancelling their Saturday night and Sunday shows.  While we only ended up getting .25 inch of ice, in Charlotte that is Armageddon.  We're just not prepared for it, as shown by the kids getting 3 days off school for it, and to have people out on the road would just be dangerous.

Fechez la vache!

Black Rebel Motorcycle Club & Humanist @ The Orange Peel

I can't believe it's been 7 years since Black Rebel Motorcycle Club have been close enough for me to go and see.  Their show in 2018 was a pearler.

The Orange Peel filled up for the show and I got there early enough to catch the last half of Humanist.  There is a dark Depeche Mode influence in this sound, but not what I was really into tonight.

Humanist's sound did blend well with BRMC playing their 3rd album, Howl,  celebrating its 20th anniversary.  I don't know why this album escaped me, as I loved the first 2, but there was definitely a different sound to what I expect from BRMC.  More atmospheric and moody, not the straight forward rock I was used to.  So for me, the first half of the show was a slow start.  Once I heard Red Eyes and Tears, everything changed.  I think the band felt the same.  The crowd definitely did.  BRMC seemed more relaxed and ready to blaze into the night.  And they did!  Every song got better.  And the crowd really started to get into it.  White Palms was good.  Berlin was excellent!  Whatever Happened to My Rock & Roll was almost an out of body experience.  And Spread Your Love....  This song sits in my Fave 40 playlist.  I can't hear it often enough.  And tonight was as good as I've ever heard it, except that 1 time they played it in the Cosmopolitan, when the casino was using it in it's commercials.  One more song from Howl, Open Invitation, calmed the crowd down before being unleased back on the Asheville night.

This is the 3rd show I've seen in Asheville since the devastating Hurricane Helene 13 months ago.  and the town is still struggling.  There were not many people around before the show (I had another good meal at Farmburger) and I grabbed a quick breakfast before driving home, and it was like walking through a ghost town.  I hope things get better for this great place.

Black Rebel Motorcycle Club Setlist

The Crap Facts

This is my 533rd concert.
This is my 6th concert at The Orange Peel.
This is my 17th concert in Asheville.
This is my 154th concert in North Carolina.
This is my 333rd concert in the USA.
Humanist are the 626th band I've seen.
This is my 5th Black Rebel Motorcycle Club concert.