Memphis, TN

I’m going to Graceland

Graceland, Memphis Tennessee – Paul Simon

I can’t believe we are at the home of the King – Elvis Presley. We bought the complete package to tour the facility, starting inside Graceland (the home) itself. We were given an audio tour through the building – from the basement TV room to the shag carpet room (floor to ceiling shag pile carpet), to the office where he gave his press conference after returning from the Army, to the squash court in the 8 acres of land. In the house was a room and hallway known as the Hall of Fame. This area holds literally thousands of gold and platinum albums accumulated from all over the world. Last of all was his grave (beside his mother, father and grandmother). These are covered in flowers as tomorrow is the 23rd anniversary of his untimely death. Across the road from the house are the museums. The car museum contained the famous Pink Cadillac and where we saw a film about his career. Also parked in the area was the Lisa Marie and Hound Dog, Elvis’ personal airplanes with his signature TCB insignia on the tails.

Graceland, Memphis, Tennessee

Elvis’ Grave, Graceland, Memphis, Tennessee

We ended up in a little café, Elliot’s, downtown for a belated lunch. After which we drove over to the Smithsonian Rock n’ Soul Museum, which traced the history of rock n’ roll. From its roots in New Orleans to the scene in the early 1950’s in Memphis (i.e,. BB King, Elvis, Chuck Berry etc). 

We went back to the hotel for a swim before a great trip to KFC for dinner. I went solo and had to get past Graceland to get to the restaurant. Unfortunately there was a road closure because of the evening’s candlelight vigil for Elvis. I spoke to a police office, and really threw on the accent, and after a couple minutes chat, he waved me through (while no one was watching). I thanked him and told him it what Elvis would’ve wanted. 

It had been a long day and Amy and I decided not to go to the vigil as we have another big day ahead of us. In hindsight, this is a decision that I regret as I will probably never have a chance to do something like that again.

New Orleans, LA to Memphis, TN

Breakfast was at Betsy’s Pancakes before getting on the road to Memphis. This was the most boring 6 hour drive of the trip so far. We stopped just inside the Tennessee border at a Tourist Info kiosk to find a place to stay. We decided on the Graceland Inn, but it was a lot more expensive when we got there that what was advertised. 

The Americana Inn across the street was a lot cheaper so we took it. Our time in Memphis started with a relaxing swim in the hotel pool. 

After a home cooked dinner we headed into Beale Street and wandered around. It is Elvis week in Memphis (Wednesday is the anniversary of his death) so the city is packed to the hilt with Elvis fans and impersonators. Needless to say, the place is jumping. Love this town already. On the way back to the hotel we stopped at some shops across the road from Graceland, where many bands were playing in the car park. We stayed and watched a few bands before heading back to the hotel.

New Orleans, LA

We left the YHA for India House, an independent youth hostel, just north of downtown.

The morning was spent driving out of town a little ways to find the New Orleans Museum of Art in the Botanic Gardens. We found a food place, Wholesale Foods, to stop for lunch on the way. We went into NOMA, where there was a display from Faberge – a company most famous for their designed eggs, popular during the time of the Russian Tsars. Faberge also made jewelry boxes, cigar holders and other jeweled items. The other main exhibit there was of photographer, Gordon Parks. Parks was the first African American photographer for Time magazine, who started his career by exposing poverty stricken areas of Central & South America. My favorite picture was one of Mohammad Ali, who was covered with sweat after a training session. The photo seemed to capture both the arrogance and humor of the man.

We headed back to the hostel for a siesta and then headed out to Popeye’s for dinner. We hung out at the hostel doing laundry and diaries during the night, and going through the photos so far.

New Orleans, LA

It is too hot today (at least 40 degrees with 90% humidity). We caught the tram into the center of town again this morning. We walked down Canal Street to the Mississippi River. We then sought shelter in some shaded markets before heading into the French Quarter. There is beautiful architecture all through this area – reminiscent of what I have seen previously in France.

Lunch, and shelter from the heat, was done at a café called Angels.

We kept wandering after lunch, back into Bourbon Street and the surrounding shopping area before getting back on the tram back to the hostel for a siesta and air-conditioning (mmmmm!)

We went out for dinner at Samuel’s, a pub 3 blocks from the hostel. We stayed on for a few drinks afterwards and watched a boxing match on the big screen.

Austin, TX to New Orleans, LA

Just up and out this morning as we continue our journey towards New Orleans. Our only stop was at a roadside Stuckey’s for lunch, once again in the middle of nowhere. We arrived in New Orleans at 5pm and tried to find the YMCA to stay at, only to find it was no longer there. Instead we checked into the YHA in the Garden District. We picked up some food at a corner store to cook later for dinner. We caught the tram up to Bourbon Street, where we walked up and down. First stop was the Steak Pit (for a Big-Ass Beer), then to a club called Maison Rouge, where we watched a great jazz & blues band. We went to a couple more bars and wandered through some shops before heading back to the hostel at 2am, where we did some drunk dialing to Robbie & Linda.

Me, Bourbon Street, New Orleans, Louisiana

Austin, TX

We went to Mojo’s Coffee House for a cuppa after breakfast doughnuts at the hotel.  We also spent a few minutes at the Austin library checking the internet.  We ended up in an all-you-can-eat pizza place for lunch.  

The afternoon was spent wandering around the shops in the area and heading over to a shopping center near the hostel to go to the movies.  We saw Hollow Man.  Man, what crap!  Our movie choices seem to be getting worse and worse.  

After the movies we went to a nearby park and hung out by the river, just killing time and relaxing.  We were waiting for a friend of Amy’s, Andrew, from university who was coming into town.  We had Wendy’s for dinner and headed over to the Sheraton where they were checking in that evening.  After waiting for a couple of hours we finally get it out of him that he is not arriving until 11pm.  So we continue our journey east.  We are headed to New Orleans and drive until we can no longer stay awake.  We find a hotel at a freeway exit, God knows where, and crash for the night.

Austin, TX

Today is not a good day.  I feel as seedy as hell!  And I am actually not able to function properly at all.  When we were kicked out of the hostel we stopped at an IHOP for a pancake breakfast.  Yeah, that didn’t stay with me long.  There was no way we could travel today, so we booked into a Super 8 and I wallowed the hangover away in bed.  Amy patiently beside me – not knowing there was a pool right outside our room.  We left the room at about 7pm and headed to Stubb’s BBQ for dinner.  This was the best thing that happened to me all day.  Food here was fantastic and I wished we’d been here to see a concert out the back.  After dinner we walked around downtown and near the University of Texas for a look around.  We also got in our daily ice cream.

Midland, TX to Austin, TX

We started a little later with a Chick-Fil-A brunch before hitting the road to Austin. 

We arrived there not long after 6pm and checked in to the youth hostel just outside of downtown.  We went into 6th Street, Austin’s downtown area to check it out.  We stumbled across a bar that was selling $1 Coronas, we stuck around to take advantage of such Southern hospitality and only left we they kicked us off the bar stools as the place started up as a nightclub.  This was at about 10pm, and once outside we grabbed a slice of pizza before we would head back to the hostel.  As it turned out, right next door was a bar doing 2 for 1 cocktails.  How could we say no?  Another few drinks and we knew it was time to leave when our waitress was so drunk she fell off the bar.  That was about 3am.  We stumbled home absolutely slaughtered.

Tucson, AZ to Midland, TX

We left early for the 600 plus mile drive to Midland Texas to see Amy’s step sister, Jenny, and her family, husband David and son Ian.  Amy drove and I slept most of the way (including all of New Mexico).  We stopped at a diner, Angie’s just outside El Paso, Texas for lunch.  We were the only ones in the place and we got ourselves a huge, great Mexican feast.  

We arrived in Midland at around 8pm.  Jenny took us to David’s restaurant, Wild Scallions, for dinner.  David owns and is the Executive Chef here.  The food is a fine dining American cuisine, and the best meal I’ve eaten in what seems like forever.  Back from the restaurant and, I don’t know how we managed it, we were up all night chatting.

Tucson, AZ

The morning started on the campus of the University of Arizona walking from faculty to faculty.  We walked past the football stadium, which is bigger than the Sydney Football Stadium, I was totally blown away.  The campus is huge and it takes a long time to cover the grounds.  We also went by Amy’s old Sorority House.  We stopped at the Sausage Deli for lunch – this, ironically for a vegetarian, is another of Amy’s Tucson favorites.  After lunch we drove west of the city, up through Gate’s pass, over to Saguaro National Park.  We stopped at various points to take pictures of these massive 12 foot plus cacti. 

Me, Saguaro National Park, Arizona

Again this was another landscape I’d never seen before, and made me feel like I’d stepped on to the set of an old Western movie.  On the drive home we stopped at the pharmacy to pick up some photos and for our daily ice cream.  We also did some shopping at a second hand store.  When we got back to the hotel, we went down the afternoon and spent the late afternoon relaxing there.  We had dinner at Rosa’s restaurant – Amy’s favorite Mexican restaurant in the world.  After dinner we had drinks at Shelter before settling in for the night.

Flagstaff, AZ to Tucson, AZ

We had a quick bagel for breakfast so as to head off to Phoenix.  Our one stop at Phoenix was at the Phoenix Art Museum to see an exhibition of Annie Liebowitz called “Women”.  So many great photos of different women from coal miners, to astronauts, the famous and the infamous (Courtney Love).  My favorite picture was one of Barbara Bush.  It is a huge black and white photo showing all the definitions of her face.  Such a simple picture that seemed to express the life that she had lead.  Amazing!  Having said that, the whole exhibit was well worth the stop.  After digging up our camping gas canister (we thought it would be too hot to leave in the car) we get back in the 43 degree heat and drive on to Tucson.  Our stop along the way was at a truck stop for lunch.

We arrived in Tucson at 5pm in the middle of a huge thunderstorm (a theme in Arizona).  We checked into a sweet suite at the Courtyard Marriott before driving around town a little.  Amy went to University of Arizona here so she was keen to show off all the old haunts.  Dinner was at El Coral, as Amy’s favorite place, Café Pocacosa, was closed for the summer (actually it re-opening on Tuesday – the day after we leave).  

After dinner we went for drinks and desert at Café Terracotta, out by the mountain.  I am still getting used to this dine around thing that Americans like to do, but I could get used to it.  After dinner we drove around the university area, cruising the bars and local street, listening to Amy’s stories of when she lived here.

Amy & I, Tucson, Arizona

Flagstaff, AZ

This morning started with me kicking and screaming as Amy took me into a health food store for breakfast.  The nerve!  We went to Bookman’s to check internet and then to Ross 4 Less, where we bought a photo frame to send to Jen, thanking her for having us.  We are booked into the hostel for this evening.  A private room, which was actually nicer than yesterday’s hotel.  We ended up at the pub next door for the afternoon – The Mad Italian – for a few beers and playing pool.  Tonight we went to the movies, and continued our tradition of bad films, seeing A Perfect Storm.  There’s 2 hours we’ll never get back.  Just a simple pizza for dinner, before another quiet night in.

Grand Canyon National Park, AZ to Flagstaff, AZ

We were up and packed early on our way to Flagstaff.  It is just under a 2 hour drive and once we get there it is straight to the doctor’s for me as I have been suffering stomach pains for the last couple of weeks.  Turns out the pain is caused by an Inguinal Hernia.  I am going to need operating on eventually, but considering it initially cost me $AUS156 just to see this doctor I may wait until I get to England to have this done.  It is nothing urgent, though keeps me in a constant state of discomfort.  I did get a prescription for pain killers in case things got worse. 

We drove around town for a while looking for lunch, but temporarily abandoned plans due to a hail storm.  Once the storm passed we went to an Irish pub for a fish and chip lunch.  After lunch we walked around some of the shops in town.  We then drove south to Sedona and Cottonwood for a look around.  The area surrounding Sedona was beautiful, and the drive there through the desert was something else – like nothing I’d seen.  The Arizona desert is a lot more picturesque than the Nevada desert.  The town itself is very touristy and we did not stop, again hindered by another thunderstorm.

We drove back to Flagstaff and stayed the night in an Economy Lodge.  Across the street was Sizzlers, where we had dinner, before a peaceful night back at the hotel.

Grand Canyon National Park, AZ

Again the day started at Yavapai Lodge for breakfast – but a lot earlier today as we need to get all our energy reserves for the upcoming day. 

We drove the Bright Angel Trailhead and then spent the early hours of the day hiking down into the Canyon. On the way down we were passed by 2 groups riding mules and I was having a hard time deciding who was having the more uncomfortable trip down. While we made 3 miles down, we were still 9 miles from the Colorado River, and never going to make it there and back in any period of time we had. We stopped at a water station, before making the much harder climb back up the canyon wall. The views, both down and up, were again like noting I never thought I would see. It is a shame today was so hot that we couldn’t hike further down and see more. This place is truly a natural wonder. 

Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Amy & I, Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

3 miles into Bright Angel Trail looking back up at South Rim, Grand Canyon, Arizona

Once back on top of the rim, it was a mere ice cream lunch before resting back at the campsite for the afternoon. We spent the afternoon writing in diaries and playing Boggle and ending with a mac and cheese dinner. Again we headed to Mather Point to enjoy the colors of the sunset over the canyon. What a great way to end our stay at the Grand Canyon!

At Sunset, Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Grand Canyon National Park, AZ

We went to Yavapai Lodge for breakfast this morning, and to stock up on water bottles for the day. We caught a shuttle bus to bright Angel Lodge, and then another to an area called the Abyss. From here we walked along the South Rim (heading west) for 3 miles to Pima Point. All along the way we had spectacular views of the canyon. We caught another shuttle to Hermit’s Rest (the westernmost point on the rim Road). After walking back a ways, we caught the shuttle again back to Mojave and then walked the mile to Hopi Lookout before getting the shuttle back to the campsite.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Amy & I, Grand Canyon, Arizona

That evening we drove outside the park to the town of Tusyan, to watch a movie about the Grand Canyon at the Imax theatre. We stopped at a local pizza place there for dinner before heading back into the National Park for an evening hanging around the camp.