Torre Annunziata, Italy

I was sad to pack up the car today. It has been such a thrill staying at Podere Loliondo and exploring Orvieto and the surrounding area. However, the boys have requested seeing Pompeii so today we are heading off to Torre Annunziata, where we have an Airbnb for the next 2 nights.

Our drive takes us down the A1 all the way to Naples. It’s about 330 kilometers and we stop for once for gas and lunch just off the freeway. The freeways have been quite easy to drive, but it’s hard to get used to the tolls, as the A1 requires a ticket and then you pay when you get off. The Naples freeway requires payment at the beginning. It sounds easy, but I can’t read the Italian signs, so we just wing it.

When we get off the freeway, driving changes immediately. Shit just got crazy! The streets are really narrow and rules are non-existent, and people are in a hurry. Throw in even crazier Vespa riders, and I can’t believe we are going to survive the next 2 days.

I booked a place in Torre Annunziata as it was on the coast. I thought we’d be able to get a swim in maybe, and temperatures would be a little cooler. Wrong on both fronts. On the water yes, but a port town, so the beach is not very nice at all. And it’s hotter and more humid here than in Orvieto. Fortunately, we have a really nice place to stay. In the middle of town, this apartment has been recently renovated and, while minimalist, is very comfortable. There are 2 places for rent, and we have missed out on parking today so I drive off and look for a spot. Luckily, there is parking in Piazza Ernesto Cesaro, just around the corner. When I find a local, she kindly informs me I can stay there as long as I need, without charge.

It is late afternoon, but so hot, but we go for a quick look around town. We head to the water but it is not particularly nice, so we go looking for dinner instead. At 7pm most restaurants haven’t opened yet (as is the late-dining European way) so we end up settling for Masse Ristorante Pizzeria. We are seated outside, looking over the water, but there is no escaping the heat, and we just can’t get comfortable. That and we are the only people there, so every staff member is fawning over us to help. The meal wasn’t great, and in the end, we just headed back to the apartment to sleep of the night. We have a big day tomorrow, after a long drive today.

Rome, Italy

We were up early again to get down to the station for the 7.25 am train to Rome, This time with Pops and NanNan. A quiet ride in, again the express with only 2 stops and we were in Rome by 9 am. We started with a pastry breakfast at Rinaldi inside Termini

Although it’s warm, it’s only a mile walk down to the Colosseum, so we wander down and take in the area, including the Arch of Constantine, before our 10.25 am ticketed entrance (another difference since 1998, where we just went in). The place is packed with people. And there is no hiding from the heat, even this early. We spent just on an hour here’ taking in the history and the views. The boys seemed impressed, but bummed that we couldn’t get into the underground area.

NanNan, L, Pops, B & D, Colosseum, Rome, Italy

Colosseum, Rome, Italy

D, L, M & B, Colosseum, Rome, Italy

Once out we needed refreshing, so headed over to the west side of the Colosseum and ended up at Coming Out Bar (Italy’s original gay bar) for drink. It could not have come at a better time as we were all struggling with the heat.

After our break, Pops & NanNan left us to take a taxi up to the Spanish Steps while we headed over to the Forum, to use the other part of our Colosseum ticket. Somehow, we got lost finding the entrance, but came across Santa Francesca Romana, a beautiful church, where a wedding was taking place. Once we actually made it inside, we saw a few things before temperatures got too much and our hour-ish at most at the Forum came to an end. But not before seeing a few sights like The Arch of Titus, inside the Temple of Romulus, Temple of Antonius & Faustina, the Arch of Septimus, and the Temple of Vesta.

B, M & L, The Forum, Rome, Italy

Temple of Romulus, The Forum, Rome, Italy

Temple of Antonius and Faustina and San Lorenzo, The Forum, Rome, Italy

Not far outside the exit we found the Lonely Planet recommended La Carrette for lunch. Oh my God! This was easily the best pizza I’ve eaten this trip – and not because I was starving. Everyone’s food was so fresh and good.

The boys had had enough sightseeing in this oppressive heat, so we decided to wander back to Termini through some of the quieter streets of Rome. This way mom could go into some stores and all of us could get a gelato fix from Glauco Gelato.

We just missed the 2.30 pm train, so went and got some water and waited for the 3.30 pm train back to Orvieto (as we had last Saturday). Without contact we also ran into Pops and NanNan, who had also finished their excursion for the day. Not much to tell on the train as most of us got some form of a nap in.

The pool was a must, being our last day here. Boy did we need it. We also sat up at the outdoor dining table again to watch out last Orvieto sunset. What a great spot this has been. Not sure what I was expecting to get out of Italy this visit, but so far it has well exceeded my expectations. Tomorrow, we leave Pops & NanNan behind as we spend our last couple of days down in the Pompeii area. Something new for all 4 of us.

Orvieto, Italy

For us it was relatively early that we drove in to Orvieto for a quick last look around town. We parked at top of funicular and did our walk up Corso Cavour to Torre del Moro. We did a bit of shopping along the way and I picked up some shoes and a belt from Sargentini.

Torre del Moro was only steps away and we bought tickets to climb the 13th century clock tower. All 250 steps and 47 meters of it. I was exhausted when I got to the top. But the 360 view of the city and the surrounding town was the best. A beautiful view of the Duomo, unfortunately with a crane in the way. The Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, near where we ate Sunday night – and where we’ll go and have a look when we get down. And, of course, the Umbrian countryside outside the city. I hate heights, but it is so amazing to get this view anywhere, it’s worth the heart murmurs.

Duomo from Torre del Morro, Orvieto, Italy

Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo from Torre del Morro, Orvieto, Italy

M, B, D & L, Torre del Morro, Orvieto, Italy

We wandered around the bookstore under the tower, just to cool off after climbing all those stairs. I tried to convince B into buying a Harry Potter book in Italian, but he said he’s never read it and books need to be read.

Just down the way we ventured to Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, but after doing a lap, we couldn’t even find an entrance, let alone go in.

Mom decided she wanted to do some shopping so I took the boys up to the Duomo to tour inside. They hadn’t been in yet, and I was more than happy to go in again. The beauty inside is almost overwhelming, and we were in there while an organist was playing, so we sat inside as he played and explained the pieces he had chosen (in Italian and English).

L & B, Duomo, Orvieto, Italy

For lunch we walked back down Corso Cavour and stopped at Caffe del Corso. Big mistake. It was shit! B’s lasagna was microwaved from frozen and generally the meal was no good. Shame to leave Orvieto as that as our last meal after nothing but good food beforehand.

We stayed back at the house tonight, as that is where the pool and all the leftovers are. As well as too much gelato that we’ve been buying from the store (because having it while were out wasn’t enough). This also allowed us for an early night as we are headed back to Rome early tomorrow.

Orvieto, Italy

Initially the plan was to catch the train to Florence today. But because it’s going to reach above 100ºF, the Uffizi is closed on Mondays, and the Accademia (where the David is) is sold out, we have opted for a rest day by the pool.

Unfortunately, we lose power early on in the day. Not to worry as the house keeps naturally cool and it is more of an excuse to be out by the pool.

B & L, Podere Loliondo, Orvieto, Italy

We leave the house (just to get out) just after lunch. It turns out that in Ciconia, at the bottom of the hill, there is another La Pasqualetti to fulfil our daily gelato need. We also made a stop at the grocery store as well.

Later in the evening the 6 of us drove to Orvieto and, this time, parked on the west side of the city, where a series of escalators got us up to town and relatively close to dinner. Tonight, we are at Charlie, another favorite of our hosts, for dinner. Away from the center of town, Charlie seems to cater mostly to locals, and is said to have the best pizza in town. Another nice, leisurely meal, sitting outside doing everything to make Orvieto a favorite place.

As we tried to get back to the car, we found the escalators had been turned off for the night, and the passageway closed. We ran into Pops and NanNan who offered to drive us back to the parking lot, as they had parked nearby the restaurant. Drama ensued. Unlit and unmarked streets led us to a narrow street that, until half way down, did we realize we wouldn’t be able to get through. After a lot of careful maneuvering, a local pointed us in the right direction and we made it to our parking lot. Only to then find out I had no idea where the pay station was. Eventually, I found it at the top of the elevators, and we made it home.

Todi, Italy

We got a late start today. Pops and NanNan are headed out for the first time since NanNan got ill last week. They were on the road headed to Todi before we were ready, so we followed a little later.

Todi is another Italian town on top of a butte, about 40 kilometers from Orvieto. It is the same picturesque drive as the one to Assisi, but only half way there. We tried to park near Tempio di Santa Maria della Consolazione, but had to turn around to a parking deck nearby. Turns out this parking deck is right next to a small funicular. Taking us up into town. We walked along Via Augusto Ciuffelli, this led us to the main square, Piazza del Popolo. Here we ran into Pops and NanNan, who are taking a break in the shade at a bar. We went our separate ways soon after, as we went on an unmapped search for lunch. Around the corner, on Via Roma, and down the hill a little was Pizzeria Italo, where we sat outside and enjoyed (surprise, surprise) pizza, salad and roasted chicken and potatoes.

A, B & L, Piazza del Popolo, Todi, Italy

After the much need respite, we walked back up to the piazza and crossed the square to La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, the 12th century church overlooking Piazza del Popolo. Amazingly we had the place to ourselves. There was no one inside as we marveled at Fenzoni’s Last Judgement Fresco, with its delicate stained-glass window at the top. Also inside, was a wonderful organ and then a statue, Cristo Deposto Dalla Croce, an uncredited portrayal of Christ after crucifixion. Very rarely do you see Christ depicted this way, especially on his own. Again, I couldn’t get over the fact we were the only ones in here. Pretty special.

La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, Todi, Italy

Cristo, Deposto Dalla Croce, La Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, Todi, Italy

Gelato time! Next to our lunch spot was Bar Pianegiani, who hooked us up with some delicious gelato (is there any other type in Italy?)

L, B, & M, Bar Pianegiani, Todi, Italy

As we had no map, we just wandered the streets of Todi, allowing Amy to stop into stores to look around. Eventually we ended up at Chiesa di San Fortuna, down by the funicular. This church is supposed to be as spectacular as the other we visited, but we arrived moments after it closed, so we only got to see it from the outside.

Before we left, the boys went and bought themselves a hat each and we looked out over the countryside to the north, enjoying the view and the shade. I can’t believe all these great little towns we’ve discovered. I feel like it’s so much better than going from one big city to the next. Not to say Rome isn’t amazing.

B & L, Todi, Italy

When we get home, it’s straight in for a swim to cool down before we get ready to head back in to Orvieto for dinner. We parked both cars up in the town tonight, and then caught the bus up to the Duomo. It’s a short walk from there to Osteria da Mamma Angela, where we have a reservation for dinner. This restaurant was recommended to us by our hosts at the house as a favorite of theirs. Who’s know better? We are seated outside, looking out towards Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. I had an Umbrian special, umbrichelli with pistachio and speck, and it was wonderful. Easily the best meal I’ve had so far this trip.

Pops, NanNan, B, L, D & M, Osteria de Mamma Angela, Orvieto, Italy

We had to walk through Orvieto to get back to the cars, so obviously we had to have a night-cap gelato at La Pasqualetti before heading home.

Rome, Italy

We’re supposed to be on vacation. Not up this early. But to have a whole day in Rome and get Drew to the airport we were down in Orvieto to catch a 5.54am train. Such a smooth ride, with only 2 stops before getting into Termini. There we left Drew as he caught his train to the airport as we went exploring the city.

We walked over to the Metro, bought a day pass, and caught the train to Ottoviano.  From there it was a couple of blocks to a café, Clemintina, where we had a leisurely breakfast.

Again, it was only a few more blocks before we got to Vatican City and into St. Peter’s Square. Last time I was here, in 1998, the frontage was covered by scaffolding and you couldn’t see any of this magnificent church. Today was different. And while you couldn’t roam freely around the Square, as it was set up for a seated event later on this evening, I finally got to see the Vatican as a whole. The other difference was we could just walk in, now you have to go through security screening, which for us meant a ½ hour wait in line. We walked in and I went straight for Michelangelo’s Pietra. It was a favorite back in 1998 and didn’t disappoint again. Though I don’t remember it being behind plexiglass. We were here before it was crowded and it was just great to marvel at the masterpiece. We walked down the middle of St. Peter’s straight towards the dome. Michelangelo’s dome is just wonderful, and more than complemented by Bernini’s baldachin. The baldachin marks St Peter’s tomb. We also saw some of the church members walking to the Left Transept, where they hold a daily mass. We were probably in the church for 90 minutes and by the time we left it was getting fuller. B & A stopped to watch a baptism in the small chapel near the entrance. L and I went back over to get one last look at the Pietra. We had to fight our way past people to get a good look this time. I hope this experience is one that sticks with the boys, and the significance of where we have just been. I worry that 11-year-olds they may not get it, but time will tell.

St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City

B, M, L & D, St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City

We left St Peters and walked down Via della Conciliazione, crossing the Tiber River at Castel Sant Angelo and walking along the river for a bit before ducking into Piazza Navona. Before we left, I made the boys choose sites in Rome & Florence and do some research about them. L had chosen the Vatican and B this Piazza, so he was super engaged as we took in the Fontana del Nettuna and Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi. There are a ton of places to eat on the plaza, so I was hoping we could come back here for lunch.

L, B & D, Piazza Navona, Rome, Italy

Piazza Navona, Rome, Italy

A 5-minute walk east and we were at the Pantheon. We booked tickets a couple of days ago, and thankfully so, as you can’t get in today without them, and they are sold out. The ticket also includes a 45 minutes audio tour, one for each of us, so we set our own pace through this 2000-year-old temple. The oculus is so unique, and it’s amazing to be at the tomb of Raphael. I think the boys tolerated this, but at least it someone else giving them all the information (and correctly).

Pantheon, Rome, Italy

L & B, Pantheon, Rome, Italy

We went back towards Piazza Navona to find a restaurant A had seen in the Lonely Planet, but it was a bit too fancy for the boys, but on the next corner we found Trattoria Il Lucano, where a young guy used all his English to sway us to stop there. So, we did. And gladly so. Lunch was great. Pizzas and pasta all round. The boys are eating like monsters on this trip. It does not bode well for their teenage years, but they are getting into it, and doing a fantastic job of speaking the little Italian they do know – much to the joy of the locals.

After lunch we are heading up to the Trevi Fountain. But first there is something important to do. Gelato. Francesco had told us about Giorgio Gelato, a Roman institute so we headed up to the store on our way. Gelatos, pastries and tourists galore. But worth it. I had a pineapple and a mango gelato and it was great. Everyone enjoyed theirs.

The Trevi Fountain was another 10 minutes further on. I remember really liking this place last time, and while the wow factor is still there, this time it is over run with people. Holy shit! Noise and people and activity everywhere, really makes it hard to enjoy everything. We threw our coins in, as per tradition, in order to ensure our return to Rome, and decided we’d make this the last stop for the day.

B, D & L, Trevi Fountain, Rome, Italy

The heat is just as overbearing as all the other tourists (them…not us). The closest Metro is Spagna, up near the Spanish Steps, so we walk up there taking a glancing look and one photo of the Spanish Steps before getting into the cool of the Metro station.

We caught the train back to Termini and had to wait about 30 minutes for the 3.30pm train back to Orvieto. Enough time for a drink and bathroom break. The trip back to Orvieto was uneventful as we splayed out, utterly exhausted from our 9 miles wandering around town. We did stop at Superconti (grocery store) on the way back home, mostly to make sure we had enough gelato in the house.

After cooling off in the pool, dinner were some leftovers from last night’s pasta. None of us were up too late tonight. Today had been a big one.

Acquadepente, Italy

So again, I had found a place on atlasobscura.com called Bosco del Sasseto in the town of Aquadepente, a town about 30 kilometers east of where we are. So, A, the boys and I pack into the car (Drew has decided his last day would be a relaxing one at the house) and drive out.

Bosco del Sasseto is a forested area that contains a mausoleum of the owner of the nearby, Castello di Torre Afina. Except these places aren’t in Aquadepente, as such, but that’s what I put in the GPS. After doing a lap of this quaint town, including being yelled at driving down the wrong way of a one-way street, we headed out to Torre Afina – with the right directions – to arrive midday after driving down a beautiful tree-lined road to get into town.

Castello di Torre Afina, Acquadepente, Italy

I should have known from the way the day started that it may not get better. And that was the case. We found a spot to park in this small town and walked up to the castle only to find Castello di Torre Afina was not open to public. We walked around it to get some pictures and decided we’d just head down to Bosco del Sasseto and tour that instead. We found the ticket office and I thought it said it was open from 10.30am – 5pm, but I couldn’t find a place to actually buy a ticket. We ended up running into another couple who, bless their kindness, told us that tours only occurred at 10.30 and 5pm (thanks to Google translate on the phone). Our new found Italian friends were not local so could not guide us to a place to eat lunch. And we couldn’t find anything. So as people started getting hangry, we jumped back in the car and headed back Orvieto.

We drove back via Castel Giorgio, hoping we’d find lunch and an attraction there. Turns out there is no castle in Castel Giorgio but we found a place for lunch. Zoobar. What a find! A little café where my minimal Italian and their minimal English got us a great little lunch. The cafe itself is obviously a locals’ place, as just after we ordered the place was overrun with local workers. Anyway a few slices of pizza later, we ordered gelato for the boys and were on our way.

We wondered at the county side during our 20 kilometers back to Orvieto where we went and parked at the top of the funicular, right next to Pozzo di San Patrizio (St. Patrick’s Well). The well was built in 1537 and is named after St Patrick’s Purgatory in Donegal Ireland. Inferring that both places are deep enough to be a gateway to hell. This 200-foot deep well is designed like the structure of a DNA helix, i.e., one side goes down the 248 steps and then you come up a different ramp and never the 2 walkways cross. 70 windows line the ramps as you descend and ascend into the refreshingly cool air. The well is in great condition and it is hard to wrap my head around being something that is 500 years old.

St. Patrick's Well, Orvieto, Italy

L & B, St. Patrick's Well, Orvieto, Italy

B, L & M, St. Patrick's Well, Orvieto, Italy

St. Patrick's Well, Orvieto, Italy

B, M, D & L, St. Patrick's Well, Orvieto, Italy

On the drive back up to the house was stopped for our first lot of gas. For all the complaints about gas prices in the US at the moment, its nothing to the €2.09 per liter (€7.52 a gallon) we just paid. €90 to fill the tank.

We all had dinner at home tonight. Sausage and pasta as we sat at the outdoor table and enjoyed another beautiful Umbrian sunset.

Assisi, Italy

This morning the 5 of us drove 55 miles northeast to Assisi. Just outside Perugia (where I also wanted to stop, but it turns out its another larger city without the beauty were about to see). We followed the phone’s directions until we saw this beautiful town on a hill, surrounded by a beautiful green landscape.

We parked on the south side of town and wandered up to the middle. The main purpose of coming here is to see St. Francis Basilica, but first we went into the center of town and saw the Temple of Minerva. This 16th century church, behind its Corinthian columns has a petite interior, but some decorative frescoes inside.

It was lunch time so at the behest of the Lonely Planet we went to Osteria La Piazzetta dell’Erba. We sat outside at this Japanese influenced Italian restaurant, and the food was magnificent. I had the steamed shrimp bun with spicy mayo. The boys split a pinsa with rocket, cherry tomatoes and ham that was so fresh. I had a bite and it was magnificent. Amy had a tuna tataki that was the most beautiful looking food I’d ever seen. And had a taste to match. What a great find!

D, M & Drew, Osteria la Piazzetta dell'Erba, Assisi, Italy

Our plan from here is to walk down to St. Francis’ Basilica, but first, gelato. We stopped at a wonderful place near the restaurant and ate it while standing in Piazza del Commune, while mom and Drew looked in some stores.

D, B & L, Assisi, Italy

There was some more browsing as we walked north-west down the hill until we got to Basilica di San Francisco d’Assisi. When you come towards the church you are walking down narrow streets, and all of a sudden the view opens up to the church, at the edge of town, with greenery as far as the eye can see behind it. It is breathtaking. This church was built after St. Francis’ canonization in 1228 and today is World Heritage Listed. And just when you think the outside is spectacular, we walked into the lower church (after Amy was given a shoulder covering) into this most spectacular basilica. Many small chapels are surrounded by endless frescoes, while you wander around in near silence trying to take everything in. You can exit just beside the altar and those steps take you outside above the courtyard of the friary. You can walk across there to get into the upper church. A bluer (literally) feel in this large chapel, I spent a fair bit of time looking at the ornate woodwork of the choir area. The boys were done and Amy took them outside, while I continued through and not realizing I could get out at the upper basilica, I went back down. And I’m glad I did, as I was able to go into the crypt, where Francis remains were entombed. It’s a little creepy, but what is here is why this whole magnificent church was built. St Francis is a native of this town and died here at the age of 44. His love of animals was well known, but his main achievement was seen as founding the Franciscan Order in 1209. A great history lesson today. I hope the boys come to realize the importance of seeing this beautiful county and its significant history.

A, B, D & L, Basilica di San Francisco d’Assisi, Assisi, Italy

We drove pass the town of Todi, about half way back home. We’ll have to look at this place and see if it’s worth a visit. Mind you I think the answer is yes, just from driving by it on the road.

Back at home we had a swim in the pool. Dinner tonight was lasagna, made by Francesco’s girlfriend especially for the boys. And we all went and watched another sunset tonight. How great is this place!

L&B, Orvieto, Italy

Sunset, Orvieto, Italy

Orvieto, Italy

We’re sticking to Orvieto again today so this morning while A, Drew and L went for a walk around the property, B and I was spent our time wisely in the pool.

L&M, Orvieto, Italy

After having lunch at the house, A, the boys, Drew and I drove back to the train station to catch the funicular up to Orvieto. We walk back up towards the Duomo on Corso Cavour, but not before stopping at Pasqualetti for our daily gelato fix.

B & L, Pasqualetti, Orvieto, Italy

We purchase tickets for The Underground Tour, but have to wait until 5pm so spend some time wandering through other parts of the city we hadn’t seen, and also finding a restaurant, Charlie, that our hosts recommend. It doesn’t open until 7.30pm so I’m not sure we’ll get to it tonight.

At 5pm we meet our guide and about 6 others outside the tourist info and we walk down to the underground caves of Orvieto Underground Tour. 1,200 caves built as long as 2500 years ago were built by the Etruscans, mostly for private use or to dig wells as water was sparse in the town. We spend about an hour and a half in only 2 of them. We see old olive oil presses, pigeon homes, (for food – still a delicacy in Orvieto today) and still functioning wells. That, and Drew and his geology brain, is in overload. There are a couple of tight squeezes that Amy stops at, and are hard for me to pass because of height, but for the most part this are the most open caves I’ve been in. Most older structures didn’t consider those over 6 foot tall. We also were shown (couldn’t go in) a passage way that was used to take injured people, in times of war, straight into the hospital. While these caves are public, many of today’s caves are used in residences as private storage and basement areas. It took us that time to see 2, imagine taking the time to go through the other 1200.

L, Drew & B, Orvieto, Underground Tour, Italy

Dad, Orvieto, Underground Tour, Italy

After riding the funicular back down to the car we drove half a mile to have dinner outside the city walls at San Michelle Trattoria/Pizzeria. It was comfortable enough to sit outside (actually it was preferable to the non-air conditioned inside). I had a sausage & potato pizza (which turned out to be French fries on the pizza – after I told the boys they couldn’t have fries). The food was great, and the service wonderful as our waitress/probably owner marveled as the boys tried to speak in Italian. We also took a pizza to go for Pops & NanNan.

We got home in plenty of time for a night swim, which is so perfect after a hot day out. This pool has been a blessing.

Bagnoregio, Italy

We woke this morning to find NanNan’s cough had turned into the dreaded Covid-19, so while her and Pops stayed at the villa, the rest of us made an 18-mile drive south out to Bagnoregio. Not before a breakfast stop at Pasticceria Nando, in Orvieto Scalo. Mmmm…breakfast pastries (and a coke. I love being on vacation).

I had found (on the Atlas Obscura website) details about Civita di Bagnoregio, a 2500-year-old town sitting on a plateau just outside the main town. It looks like an island in the badlands, and just seeing something different sounded great.

You park at Bagnoregio and walk through the town. Bagnoregio was originally a suburb of the Civita, but over time became the main town to Civita’s tourism destination. The walk is through another beautiful, thin-street town was less than a mile along Corso G. Mazzini. As it was getting hot already, we didn’t stop to enjoy the Chiesa della SS Annunziata, with its statue of St Bonaventura, or the Auditorium Vittorio Taborra. We stopped only long enough to get photos.

Then the Civita comes into view and it doesn’t look real. Like an elevated island surrounded by a no longer existent ocean. It’s beautiful, and already I’m glad we came out here. We bought tickets to cross the bridge and that’s when my problem began. Not liking heights, I was somewhat uncomfortable thinking about walking across the span. I didn’t get very far before a gust of wind froze me to the spot. I physically couldn’t go further forward. I was so angry with myself. The others went on while I fought with myself. It is no longer a matter of getting across, I couldn’t even turn around and go back. It was so irrational! Eventually I turned around and made it back up to the ticket booth (after about ½ hour arguing with myself about going over). Eventually I texted A, told them to take their time and waited disappointingly for their return. I did walk back down to near the bridge and had lunch at Gelateri Maluba. A prosciutto and cheese quesadilla and coke were a small consolation considering the Civita was the place I most wanted to go in all of the trip.

D, L, B, M & Drew, Civita di Bagnoregio, Italy

B, M & L, Civita di Bagnoregio, Italy

We talked of going to Aquadepente afterwards, but it was midafternoon by the time the others returned, so after walking back through town, we ended up just driving back home, where we all enjoyed the spoils of the pool.

Dinner tonight was salmon cooked over the open fire, but we had dinner at the outside table, where we could also watch the sunset. Talk about amazing! It was just serene and had us all counting our blessings to be where we were.

B, Drew, NanNan, Pops, M & L, Orvieto, Italy

It was still warm, so there was also more swimming to be done after dinner.

Orvieto, Italy

The boys got a much-deserved sleep in today. But today we begin our adventures in Italy with a day out in our host city, Orvieto. The 7 of us packed into 2 cars and headed down the hill to the other side of the freeway and parked in the train station lot. From here you take a funicular up to Orvieto, as the old city sits on the summit of a large butte. The boys loved the less than 2-minute ride that drops you off in the north-east part of town.

You can see the Duomo from pretty much anywhere in the city so we head to Corso Cavour and start to meander through the city. But first – Gelato! As is mom’s want, ice cream is a must on every day of a summer vacation, so we stopped almost immediately to begin our new addiction to gelato. That gets everyone happy. 

B,D,L&M, Orvieto, Italy

This city (dating back to Etruscan times 750 BC) just has one beautiful side street after another coming off the main street. We eventually get to Torre del Morro, turned left up Via del Duomo to walk up to the cathedral. Wow! What a beautiful sight! This church, completed in 1590, is massive. The front façade, covered in intricate sculptures and beautifully tiled columns, is a breathtaking site. And the door on its own could be an attraction. In contrast, the side of the cathedral is a plain, green and greyish striped wall – beautiful in its own way, but not the marvel of the front.

We sat and looked at the façade until it was time for lunch. We walked back down Via del Duomo until we got to Il Dialogo Ristorante, where we got a table outside and had lunch. Our first meal out…. and we all went for it. I had a sausage pizza which was delicious (and huge). Pasta, pizza and salad all round and a bottle of white.  A great first dining experience.

The heat was getting substantial, and after lunch Pops and NanNan took the boys home to spend some time by the pool, while Drew, A and I continued to wander around the city.

A went and did some window shopping while Drew and I headed back to look through the Duomo. If I thought the outside was spectacular, the inside was just as magnificent. From the incredibly picturesque alter, to the massive organ, the statues (including Adam & Eve) and the Luca Signorelli frescoes in the Chapel of Madonna di San Brizio were jaw-droppingly beautiful. Signorelli, especially, with his “The Damned in Hell” was both visually amazing, and surprising to see pictures of demons in a church. Another thing I liked was some of the windows were covered in alabaster, allowing a beautiful light in, though completely unseen from the outside. Obviously the stain glass was impressive as well, but I’d never seen anything like this in a church before.

Duomo, Orvieto, Italy

Duomo, Orvieto, Italy

Alabaster Window, Duomo, Orvieto, Italy

Luca Signorelli's "The Damned", Duomo, Orvieto, Italy

We wandered around the city, not looking for anything in particular, just enjoying being in a foreign land, seeing buildings and people for the first time, watching a new town operate.

Eventually we made our way back to Piazza Cahen, where we walked through Fortrezza Albornoz. This 14th century fortress gave wonderful sweeping views of Umbria in the general direction of where we were staying – and south.

A quick ride down on the funicular and we were on our way back home, via a stop at the Coop supermarket to get some supplies for the house. An Italian grocery store – another first for me.

Dinner tonight was leftovers from last night’s feast before heading into an evening swim with the boys, who I think had been in the pool since they got home mid-afternoon.